Visit Bhuleshwar's chambers of temple music

This weekend, drop by Bhuleshwar's chaotic streets to discover its long-forgotten nagarkhanas, where musicians brought temple music to life. After the spiritual trip, scour its gullies for soul food and saree shopping

The bustling lanes of Bhuleshwar in south-central Mumbai are home to more than 100 temples (many dating back several centuries).
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Each vies for attention amidst a sprawling commercial hub, where everything from silverware to puja utensils and clothes are on sale.

Like many older parts of the city, this area holds secrets as well.

The name is derived from the word Nagada Khana (drum room), a place where the nagada is played and important announcements are made.

The music is similar to the Nadaswaram played at aarti sessions in South India's temples. Attired in dhoti, kurta and pagdi, musicians would perform for the gods as well as teach people music.

"Nagarkhanas were very common in temples and havelis of Gujarat and Rajasthan.

When the trading community migrated to Mumbai, they brought along the nagarkhana culture," says Harish Joshi, Director, Madhav Baug Mandir.

While there are several temples in the city that still have nagarkhanas built in the Gujarati and Rajasthani architectural styles, musical performances took place only at the Mota Mandir until some time back.
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One can still spot such structures at Bhuleshwar Mahadev temple, Madhav Baug temple, Swami Narayan temple, the Nar Narayan temple at Bhuleshwar and the Jagannath Mahadev temple at Banganga.

"Nagarkhanas were phased out about five decades ago when the musicians were lured by modern professions.
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Sadly, the new generation chose to pursue more lucrative occupations rather than the family tradition," adds Prashant Goswami, Junior Pontiff and descendant of Govardhanganeshji Maharaj at Mota Mandir, Bhuleshwar.
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Laxmi Narayan Temple, Madhav Baug Seth Varjivandas and Seth Narottamdas established the 133 year-old Laxmi Narayan temple at CP Tank.

Originally from the Gujarati Kapol community, they were Pushti Margis who followed the Bhakti Marg teachings of Vallabhacharya Swami.

The temple boasted of several award-winning musicians whose students performed at Dwarka and Somnath.
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Their kirtankars performed haveli sangeet or the 18 seasonal musical ragas for Lord Krishna, depending on the season and whether the deity was bathed, adorned (Shringar) or offered naivedya (Rajbhog).
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Today, the third generation descendants of the famous musicians perform at the temple but not at the nagarkhana, which lies vacant.

At: Madhav Baug, CP Tank.
From: 11 am-11.30 am, 6 pm-7 pm

Bhuleshwar Temple

Bhuleshwar gets its name from the 302 year-old Bhuleshwar Mahadev Mandir, where a Shiva Linga is believed to have appeared on its own, from the earth (swayambhu).

The temple has a prominent nagarkhana above the arch of the entrance gate, which is in a state of semi-ruin and is covered with plastic sheets to prevent water leakage during the monsoons.

Replete with ornate wooden carvings, it was built in a mix of Gujarati and Konkani architectural styles. Today, sadly, few are aware of the nagarkhana, including the priests themselves.

At: Bhuleshwar.

The Nagarkhana at Madhav Baug temple is where musicians performed haveli sangeet

Mota Mandir

This is a rare find. Mota Mandir, built 200 years ago by Govardhaneshji Maharaj, a direct descendant of Vallabhcharya Swami is probably the only place where the nagarkhana is still in use.
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Looked after by the seventh generation of swamis, three musicians (2 nagada players and a shehnai players) usually play here, twice a day.

But since it's being renovated, the nagarkhana is temporarily shut down and the musicians perform in the temple now.

At: Chandi Gulli, Bhuleshwar.
From: 11 am-12 pm, 6 pm-7 pm

Bhuleswar finds for Traditional Gujarati sarees

The 100 year-old shop Khatri Jamnadas Bechardas (also known as Khatri and Sons) is famous for his stock of traditional Gujarati Panetar wedding sarees, Bandhani sarees and Gharchora.

One of the oldest shops in Bhuleshwar, it is located at the end of the busy Gulalwadi Corner and is packed with families hoping to get their hands on colourful wares sourced all the way from Gujarat.

At: 3rd Bhoiwada, Gulalwadi Corner.

For riotous masala papad chaat

If you are in Bhuleshwar, a visit to the Khau Galli in the afternoon is a must. You can savour all kinds of chaats, sandwiches and Indian snacks.
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However, plumb for the unique Masala Papad Chaat, where ingredients of chaat are added to a papad, instead of a puri.

This large papad is generously layered with potatoes, sev, tomatoes, onions as well as sweet and spicy chutney.

The best part? It costs you 15 bucks!

At: Bhuleshwar Khau Galli.