Don't miss Bengali food for the monsoon

Shorshe IlishPictures for representational purposes onlyDuring the last few days of summer each longer than the previous one the endurance of man land animals and vegetation is stretched to breaking point As the people of Bengal live through this scorching humid hell waiting for Barsha the monsoon some find comfort in quoting the opening phrase of the Meghadootam a Sanskrit love poem by the Indian poet Kalidasa Asharasya prathama dibase On the first day of Asharh for this is the month which will bring the relief of rain gentle and violent to an exhausted earthNature of course does not always conform to calendar dates Though the first of the mystic month of Asharh falls in the middle of June Barsha is sometimes delayed by as much as two or three weeks In some years there is the welcome presage of a short but violent premonsoon downpour after which the silent summer oppression returns with renewed force for many more days When the monsoon does finally set in it too is the most deceptive advent arriving with sweet succour from the parching heat and showing nothing of the fury which will later swell the rivers to cause ruinous floodsBut then who can think of future disaster while enjoying the immediate relief of lifegiving showers As children even the first sight of dark clouds rolling towards us from the distant southeast would set us skipping with excitement The anticipation intensified as the winds gathered force as the low rumble of thunder was heard and the first streaks of lightning rent the skyShorshe Ilish Hilsa with MustardFriendly disputes arise again over which is the superior the hilsa from the Ganga by which the West Bengalis swear or the hilsa from the Padma over which Bangladesh drools Padma specimens can be much bigger than those from the Ganga though in terms of flavour and softness of texture according to the proportion of oil in the fish the Ganga variety is the superior of the two to my mind but perhaps that is my Ghoti bias There are recipes enough for the hilsa to fill an entire book Individuals families and regions have all developed their special styles spices and combinations for this delightful fish Shorshe Ilish is a classic Bengali preparation for the hilsa It is simple and depends on a single predominant taste that of mustardRecipe Serves 4500 g of peti stomach pieces washed and cleanedGrind 1frac12 tablespoons of pungent black mustard seeds with a touch of salt and a green chilli to dispel the bitterness of the mustardMustard seeds ground78 green chillies slit them down the middleMethod Rub the pieces of fish with salt and turmeric Heat 4 tablespoons of mustard oil in a karai and add the mustard paste together with frac12 teaspoon of turmeric powder Stir for a couple of minutes and add 250 ml of water As soon as it comes to a boil gently put in the hilsa pieces and the green chillies Cover and cook for ten minutes over a medium flame Uncover and taste to determine how much extra salt is needed The water should evaporate sufficiently to leave the fish coated in a thick grainy yellow sauce when you remove it Remove from the stove and add a little fresh mustard oil to the fish Leave covered for a few minutesPineapple ChutneyPineapple ChutneySometimes during Bhadras oppressive rains tea is all that you want and the loss of appetite is such that even hilsa loses its charm This is when various chutneys are made frequently as much for taste as for therapy Coconut posto or poppy seeds and mint leaves ground with green chillies tamarind salt sugar and fresh mustard oil are used for freshtasting raw chutneys One of the most delicious chutneys served to the family as also to the guests at weddings parties and funerals is made with pineapple which is a monsoon fruit in BengalRecipe We take a nice ripe pineapple and peel and cut it into tiny cubes The important thing is to throw out the hard central portion and to gouge out the eyes with a sharp knife Half a coconut is grated In a mediumsized aluminium karai 2frac12 tablespoons of ghee are heated and garom mashla consisting of 3 sticks of cinnamon 3 cloves and 810 whole cardamoms are thrown in When the fragrance is released the cubed pineapple 60 g of raisins and 1 teaspoon of salt are added These are stirred over a medium heat for four to five minutes before 1 l of water is added A lot of water is needed to cook the pineapple and to leave some for the sauce When the pineapple is tender to the point of being almost shredded the coconut is added along with 250 g of sugar The chutney is then cooked over a high heat for about five minutesThe salt and sugar are tested and a teaspoon of flour blended with a little water is mixed into the chutney to give it a smooth texture After a couple of minutes the chutney is removed from the stove It is either chilled or served at room temperature never hot Bengalis do not eat chutney as a relish with other items of food It is eaten at the end of a meal sometimes with papor on the side before dessertKhichuriKhichuriThe first day of Barsha is generally honoured with the eating of a special meal made more enjoyable by the drastic drop in temperature created by the rains and cloudcovered sky The best known Bengali dish associated with the monsoon is khichuri rice and dal cooked together with certain spices This is the housewifes response to the sudden arrival of the monsoon rains or heavy rain at any other time of the year It is probably one of the oldest surviving dishes in the Bengali repertoire From wandering mendicants who begged for their food to various religious orders that observed a strict simplicity of diet countless people have depended on khichuri to give them a balanced meal With the refinements of certain spices it becomes a delicacy which is not too rich for frequent consumption After 200 years of colonial rule the British also took it home with them as kedgereeRecipe Serves 5Ingredients500 g atap rice short grained rice500 g roasted moong dalGaram masala for seasoning 4 sticks of cinnamon 25 cm long 45 whole cardamoms and 45 whole cloves a liberal pinch of whole cumin seeds 2 bay leavesFinelychopped ginger2 whole green chillies1frac12 teaspoons of turmeric powder60 ml of mustard oilSalt and sugar to tasteGheeMethod The rice and dal rinsed separately under running water in a colander are left to dry on a flat surface for 15 minutes This process makes them easier to cook While they dry I put on the kettle so that I have ready the hot though not boiling water you need to add to the khichuri I heat the oil in a mediumsized heavybottomed deep cooking pot add the garom mashla and bay leaves and wait for a couple of minutes without stirring them for the fragrance to be released by the heat before I throw in the cumin seeds and chopped ginger These I stirfry for a couple of minutes then add the halfdried rice and fry it for two to three minutes Finally I add the roasted moong dal and the turmeric and stir the mixture for another two to three minutes before pouring on the hot water The level of water should generally be 4 cm over the rice and dal If necessary more hot water can be added towards the end depending on how thin you like your khichuri or whether the rice and dal are sticking to the pot Once the water comes to a boil I add 2 teaspoons of salt and 3 teaspoons of sugar reduce the heat to low and cover the potChitrita Banerji PicNoah SimesDG CommunicationsGenerally it takes about twelve to fifteen minutes for the khichuri to be ready To avoid sticking and even the slightest burning which ruins the flavour I keep checking from time to time and stir the mixture thoroughly with a spatula If needed I add a little more hot water After ten minutes of cooking it is a good idea to test the grains of rice and dal When they feel nearly ready I throw in the green chillies check for salt and sugar wait till the consistency is just right add 2 teaspoons of ghee and remove the pot from the stove The earlier you add the chillies the hotter the khichuri will be for the stirring will blend them in