The native nominates

Who better to recommend a meal infused with aromas of a cultural community than a member of the group himself? Aviva Dharmaraj tells you where to find the most authentic Keralite, Bengali, Mangalorean and East Indian khana from the experts themselves

Who better to recommend a meal infused with aromas of a cultural community than a member of the group himself? Avivau00a0Dharmaraj tells you where to find the most authentic Keralite, Bengali, Mangalorean and East Indian khana from the experts themselves

Pulimunchi technique
Mohan Pujari
Native of Mangalore, relishes the Kori Curry
at Excellensea, Fort
"Once you cross 50," says Mohan Pujari, "You have to be careful and refrain from eating too much spicy khana." But the 62 year-old Mangalorean resident of Belapur still recalls the time he would visit Excellensea (also known as Bharat Lunch Home) in Fort every afternoon for lunch. "Only in the last 10 years have I stopped going there as often," he rues. The Mangalorean delicacies the modest eatery offers include the popular Prawn, Fish and Crab Gassis (spicy coconut-based gravy dishes), fried fish, Meen Pulimunchi (fish marinated in spices and cooked in an earthen pot) and Neer Dosas.u00a0When it comes to reminiscing about the food of his home, Pujari, who moved to the city to live with his uncle and aunt when he was 12, says, "In Mangalore the seafood is fresh, which makes it taste different. In terms of quality and cooking preparations, though, the fish in Mumbai is better than what you get in Mangalore."
Get a plate at: 317, Bharat House, Shaheed Bhagat Singh Road, opposite Fort Market, Fort.
Call: 22618991

Mohan Pujariu00a0enjoys a sumptuous Mangalorean spread including the
Kori Curry (above, chicken gravy dish on rotis, or kori, made of rice
flour), fried fish and the Prawn, Crab or Fish Gassi (coconut-based gravy
dishes) along with Neer Dosas. Pics/ Atul Kamble

Idli, Appam as good as it gets
Nijo Jose
Native of Kerala, gets his fix of sweet and spicy at Taste of Kerala, Fort
It was interior designer Nijo Jose's uncle, who first brought him to Taste of Kerala to satiate his craving for home food, soon after the 27 year-old moved to Mumbai two years ago. "We make it a point to come here at least once a week, especially on Sunday evenings," says Jose, who stays at Mumbai Central. Jose later introduced his cousin, Princy Louis, to the nondescript eating joint tucked inside a narrow lane in Fort, and the two say they especially relish the Payasam served here. "I also like the set lunch that they serve on a plaintain leaf. The Avial (multi-vegetable gravy dish made with coconut) and Sambar they make here is the same as my mom makes them back home." "Self-food" is how Jose defines the food he cooks for himself. "Only I can eat it. I make rice, potato-onion sabzi and different types of eggs. I prepare my food in half an hour," he explains.
The friendly service at the restaurant ("now the waiters recognise us"), the spacious feel ("it is bigger than other restaurants") and "cleanliness" are the other pluses that compel Jose and Louis to return to the Taste of Kerala.
Get a plate at: Prospect Chambers Annex, Pitha Street, Fort.
Call: 22044545

The Puttu (steamed rice cakes that are a popular breakfast option) at
Taste of Kerala is as authentic as it gets. Pic/ Datta Kumbhar

Oh! for some bhapa machh
Piyali Mukherjee
Kolkata girl, likes her fish steamed at
Oh! Calcutta, Tardeo
Piyali Mukherjee, senior manager with an international bank, recalls the experience of walking into a restaurant when she first moved to the city from Kolkata, 10 years ago. "I felt so lost, I didn't know what half the items on the menu were." The 29 year-old Dadar resident did recognise one word, though: 'pattice'. "I was surprised when they brought me a plate of Ragda Pattice instead. Back home, pattice refers to a 'puff'. Crystal, the vegetarian eatery on Marine Drive that features prominently on the recommendation list of every budget foodie, would soon become a favourite haunt. "Otherwise, I'm a pure non-vegetarian," she quips. Six years ago (Mukherjee doesn't remember exactly when), she chanced upon Oh! Calcutta near Tardeo's AC market. "I often come here with friends now. It is my way of promoting Bengali food within the non-Bengali community," she laughs. Mukherjee falls into the "fish-loving Bengali" stereotype, and loves any restaurant that will whip up a mean seafood preparation. She chooses the Roshun Bhapa Macch (Steamed Bekti with Garlic and Chilli Marinade) off the menu (Rs 450) at Oh! Calcutta.The fillet is first marinated with the juices of ginger, garlic and lime, then set aside for up to an hour. It is then turned in a yoghurt marinade that includes red chilli powder and pickled ginger. The fillet is steamed for 20 minutes. Commenting on the legendary Bengali love of food, Mukherjee says, "We have the habit of appreciating the finer things in life: art, culture, and even food."
Get a plate at: Hotel Rosewood, Tulsiwadi Lane, Tardeo.
Call: 23539114/ 65806216

Piyali enjoys her Roshun Bhapa Macch at Oh! Calcutta. pic/ Shadab Khan

The Sorpotel connection
Alphi D'souza
East Indian, gets his deal clincher home-delivered
"East Indians are the original inhabitants of Bombay. As most of them worked with the East India Company, they were identified as East Indians," explains Vakola resident Alphi D'souza, who is keen that they not be confused with people from the eastern states of the country. The 59 year-old CEO of Mobai Gaothan Panchayat, an organisation devoted to the upliftment of members of the community, says he doesn't know of a single East Indian restaurant in the city. "Most East Indians are good cooks themselves, which is why there are no restaurants. We prepare and eat our own food in the comfort of our homes," he says. D'souza, however, considers himself an exception to the rule. "I can just about make a cup of tea." East Indian cuisine carries heavy influences from Portuguese cuisine. Staple East Indian dishes include Vindaloo, Potato Chops, Lonvas Curry and Phoogyas. Alphi's favourite, however, is Sorpotel. "I can have sorpotel for breakfast, lunch and dinner," he says. He recommends fellow East Indian Genevie D'souza's Pork Sorpotel (Rs 400/kg), who also accepts orders for other East Indian specialities and cakes. Genevie explains that East Indian Sorpotel is different from Goan Sorpotel. "We use our famous East Indian bottle masala that has up to 30 ingredients in it. Goans use different masalas, which are finely ground and then made into a paste. They also use onions, which we don't," she says. To place an order, call Genevie D'souza on 26672502.