Sixty-five years, countless memories— Sunday mid-day takes a look at Bombay’s favourite dining room that rose from the ashes — then and now
Shakira at Khyber during her visit in 2007
The year was 1958. A time was when Kala Ghoda — long before it became an art district — was infamous for pickpocketers and drug addicts. A few good men started a 10-seater restaurant in an 800 sq ft space, for which they paid R100 pagdi a month. It served food from the North-West Frontier. One by one, they acquired the other rooms in the building, seamlessly integrating them into the 7000-sq-ft haveli-style warren that still defines the space today — each corner whispering a different story.
On March 31, 1985, at 6 am, Khyber went up in flames. The restaurant was gutted, as the owners stood there and watched, helplessly, the cause never fully known. They were under-insured—by half. Most partners chose to walk away. All but one: Om Prakash (OP) Bahl.
Brad Pitt at Khyber during his visit in 2017
Stubborn and driven, post-Partition, OP had left a job as a building contractor in Calcutta. In 1954, he moved to Delhi to work with his cousins at the iconic Gaylord restaurant owned by the family of hotelier Ravi Ghai. Food was his true calling. Two years later, it was time — to build something of his own. He came to Bombay.
After the fire, OP and his son Sudheer — fresh out of IIM Ahmedabad and newly inducted into the business — set out to reinvent Khyber. Architect Hafeez Contractor reimagined the structure, modelled on a village; Parmeshwar Godrej brought her signature flair to the interiors. The result: handcarved Rajasthani stone jaalis, Urdu poetry in calligraphy-framed arches, mirrored alcoves, and textured walls, reminiscent of a haat.
Godrej called on her formidable circle, Anjolie Ela Menon and MF Husain among them. It is said she wasn’t satisfied with a mural Husain had painted on-site and requested three canvases instead.
Sudheer Bahl, Chairman, Khyber Restaurant with his son and CEO Ishaan
That space, now known as The Husain Room, recently reopened after a four-month renovation. The updates are subtle — lighter walls, antique gold lamps, Italian marble underfoot, and polished walnut tables. The three original Husains still command the room: a self-portrait in royal attire, a begum with a chilam, and vivid Urdu calligraphy exploding with colour.
In the room that houses Anjolie Ela Menon’s artworks, the soot-streaked walls remain untouched — intentionally so. Godrej in her wisdom, called this a million-dollar wall. Menon built a platform there and hand-painted directly onto the wall. To enhance its old-world charm, the wall and parts of the painting were deliberately chipped.
MF HUSAIN’S Begum with chillum, one of the three canvases he painted for Khyber
Khyber reopened in 1988 — transformed. What was once a volume-driven, budget joint had morphed into a sleek, modern Indian restaurant with elevated fare. The spirit stayed the same — the body changed. And Bombay loved it.
Since then, its tables have hosted royalty and rockstars alike. Brad Pitt once dined here with friends, polishing off a plate of Baingan Bharta. Sir Paul McCartney asked for the Paneer Korma recipe — and even offered to pay for it. Richard Branson, Demi Moore, Kuwaiti royals, the Grand Duke of Luxembourg, international cricket teams, spiritual leaders, and just about every Bollywood icon from Amitabh Bachchan to Aamir Khan have all found their way to Khyber. You could be sitting where they once did.
“The decade that followed was Khyber’s golden run — it cemented the restaurant’s identity for years to come,” says Sudheer Bahl, who always remained unfazed by fame. He has modelled in campaigns for Arvind Mills, Binnys, Vimal, and Toyota and has done over 30 campaigns since he was 18. To this day, Sudheer’s role remains unchanged: he checks the product — food and hospitality — with hawk-eyed consistency. Sudheer remains a quiet constant — at his desk every morning by 10 am. “Some of our regulars don’t even need a menu,” adds his son Ishaan, who grew up around dinner-table conversations about restaurants and boardroom expansion plans. “Our manager knows exactly what they’ll order.”
Today, the restaurant is helmed by Sudheer, his wife, Rashmi, who has an eye for design and Ishaan — also the driving force behind the popular café-bar chain 145. The family is overseeing a meticulous, room-by-room restoration, with plans to complete the transformation by January 2026.
Khyber
Looking back, Khyber hasn’t reinvented itself; it has refined itself. The proof lies not just in its evolving spaces but in the countless tales of distinction that have unfolded within its haveli-inspired ambience. Heartfelt anecdotes from multi-generational patrons, such as the Ambanis (Anil), Munshi, Adamjee, and Shah families, speak volumes — they consider Khyber a timeless tradition and a “go-to comfort dining” spot. Their stories echo the same sentiment: consistency, warmth, and the familiar welcome that keeps them coming back.
While Sudheer brings decades of vision, calm, and culinary instinct to the table, Ishaan complements him with energy, speed, and a detail-driven approach tailored to today’s fast-paced hospitality landscape. “During COVID 19, we had over 500 people depending on us,” recalls Ishaan. “It was my father’s composure that gave me the strength to carry on — I didn’t want a pandemic to wipe out what we had built,” says Ishaan, often referred to as Mr 24/7 by his team for being always plugged in. Together, they embody a generational partnership where tradition meets tempo and instinct balances innovation.
Paul McCartney Was Willing To Pay To Get The Recipe for This Paneer Korma
But while the walls may get a fresh coat, the heart of Khyber — the food — remains reassuringly unchanged. Signature dishes, such as the slow-cooked raan, crisp tandoori rotis, and creamy maa ki dal, have been served in the same way for decades. The menu continues to channel the bold, rustic flavours of the North-West Frontier: from the robust Spiced Chicken Broth and Mirch ka Salan to the Dhaba Gosht, Methi Malai Mutter, and Prawns Mughlai and newer additions, such as beetroot galouti kebabs and smoked butter chicken, sit comfortably alongside the classics. Still, the core menu is fiercely protected — about 80 per cent of it has remained unchanged for over 30 years. That’s by design. “Our head chef hasn’t retired yet,” says Sudheer. “And when he does, his son will step in. We hold on to our people. Our kitchen doesn’t turn over — it turns tradition into legacy.”
Khyber’s story can’t be told in a single conversation — it lives in the moments, memories, and legacy the Bahls have built over time. Since reopening, they have also found new ways to share that experience while staying true to what makes it timeless.
Reshmi Broccoli
“Looking ahead, we’re bringing the Khyber luxury experience to your home — be it for weddings, private dinners, or intimate celebrations, with our team recreating the signature atmosphere guests love. We’re also launching international bar takeovers at Khyber, finally giving our bar programme the spotlight it deserves. However, when it comes to Khyber as a brand itself, we plan to change as little as possible. Because for many, Khyber means comfort — and that’s something we’ll always protect,” signs off Ishaan.
1958
The year Khyber started as a 10-seater dhaba
Rapid fire with the Bahl boys
A dish that’s been on the menu since day one?
Paneer Korma
The one celebrity guest who left you starstruck?
Goldie Hawn (Sudheer); Brad Pitt (Ishaan)
Tandoori or Rogan Josh—your personal pick?
Rogan Josh (Sudheer); Tandoori (Ishaan)
The secret behind Khyber’s timeless charm in one word?
Majestic (Sudheer); Consistent (Ishaan)
If Khyber had a signature scent, what would it be?
Wooden, earthy.
One decade that defined Khyber for you?
The one after the fire
A modern twist you’d love to introduce—but haven’t yet?
International bar takeovers — but we will soon.
The most requested table in the restaurant?
The round table — that’s where most celebrities have dined.
A dish you haven’t taken off your menu?
There are many — Paneer Korma, Butter Chicken, Raan and Paya Shorba for sure.
If Khyber were a person, how would you describe their personality?
Royal
If you were to expand to another city — which one would it be?
Internationally, London; In India, Banjara Hills, Hyderabad.
An unusual request from a guest
Paul McCartney called the manager and asked for the recipe of Paneer Korma.
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