From batter to brand: What began as a humble kitchen venture has grown into a beloved culinary legacy — a dream shaped by family, fuelled by passion, and shared with an entire city
Beena, Hemul, and Vir Gandhi of Dakshinayan. Pic/Ashish Raje
In November last year, veteran actress Zeenat Aman shared that she visits Dakshinayan in Juhu for her regular fix of dosa, podi, ghee, and idli. Her post sparked a flood of comments, each echoing what the restaurant means to Mumbai’s diners. Known for its unfussy South Indian fare and comforting atmosphere, Dakshinayan has quietly earned its place as a city favourite. And the family behind it? As unpretentious as the food they serve. Over steaming thatte idlis, Mysore dosas, and filter coffee, we sat down to hear a story of determination, family ties, and a deep love for feeding people.
It all began at their Altamount Road home in the late 1990s. One afternoon, Beena Gandhi casually mentioned making and selling idli-dosa batter from home. Having grown up in Coimbatore, a town steeped in culture, her palate was shaped by the comforting rhythms of South Indian food. “Back home, mornings began with cleaning the porch and making kolam, followed by temple visits. Women in saris with flowers in their hair were a common sight. At home and outside, it was always idli, dosa, and rice — the flavours we grew up with, our true comfort food.”
Within minutes, her father-in-law, Jayant Gandhi, had called friends and family, announcing that they were taking orders, a small gesture, that revealed the family’s entrepreneurial spirit.
Molgapodi Idli
Later, when the family moved to Ahmedabad for her husband Hemul’s petrochemical business, Beena continued selling dosas and idlis from their new home in 2002. Word spread, and the humble venture quickly gained popularity. As Hemul gradually stepped back from the home operation, the idea of opening a restaurant gained momentum. The first Dakshinayan outlet, a modest 24-seater in Jodhpur Gam just ten metres from their home, opened in 2005.
For their son Vir, the restaurant was an integral part of his childhood, often being dropped there after school. Dosa lunches were routine and tagging along with an older cousin who helped the family with deliveries was exciting. Dinner was whatever had been made for customers. “That was our menu,” Beena laughs.
Even today, Dakshinayan’s food celebrates the rich diversity of South Indian cuisine — spanning Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh. Each dish is rooted in traditional, home-style recipes passed through generations.
Lemon rice
Dakshinayan’s Mumbai journey began in 2007, with a kitchen in Kandivali fulfilling orders across the city. Their first restaurant in Walkeshwar opened on demand by family friends in 2008. Serendipity played a role again in 2011, when friends encouraged the family to bring their food to the city’s western suburbs, leading to the opening of their Juhu outlet, near ISKCON Temple. In 2017, they opened in Navrangpura, Ahmedabad, followed by another one in Shela, Gujarat.
Despite the success, Beena stays humble. “Every time I’m at the restaurant, there’s a warmth — a, familiar joy. I stand by the kitchen, greet regulars by name, and watch our team serve each dish with care. We’re not just feeding people — we’re part of their everyday lives, and that sense of belonging is what I hold closest.”
Growing in the ’burbs
Since stepping into the family business, Vir has brought fresh energy and ideas — modernising operations, expanding the brand, and now taking Dakshinayan beyond its restaurant roots. “Consistency is everything,” he says. Staff training, regular feedback, and quality checks are the backbone of the brand’s steady success.
Rava Dosa
While Beena continues to guide the kitchen and Hemul offers strategic support, Vir now leads from the front. “He’s not chasing quick wins — he’s building with care,” Beena says. “I never did an MBA, and neither did he. We learned by doing.” Hemul adds, “Some things just run in your blood.” Interestingly, Vir hadn’t planned on joining the family business—he studied chemistry, and his parents encouraged him to explore his own path. It was his cousin — the same one who once delivered dosas — who nudged him to take Dakshinayan seriously. “I didn’t need an MBA,” Vir smiles. “I had the best mentors at home.”
Thane wasn’t his first choice for Dakshinayan’s next step. Initially seen as too far on the fringes, the city surprised him with its charm, vibrancy, and market potential. One visit changed everything. Nestled in old-school Thane, the location felt right — not just for its atmosphere but for the community it draws. With a large, discerning crowd — including many Gujarati families — and proximity to suburbs like Mulund and Ghatkopar, the decision became clear. “Location is everything,” Vir says. “And this one just clicked.” Their Thane outlet seats 85, similar to Juhu, though he believes the demand could easily support more than one Dakshinayan in the area.
For now, the focus remains on thoughtful, local growth — expanding across Mumbai and Ahmedabad, particularly in Gujarati-dominated suburbs where the brand naturally thrives. Cities like Surat and Rajkot are under consideration, given their growing food scenes and logistical ease. While Delhi and Pune are on the radar, scaling will be gradual and deliberate. Having tested and stepped back from franchising in Pune, the family now prefers to retain full control of each outlet. Southern cities, with their deep-rooted legacy restaurants, aren’t a priority; Dakshinayan’s appeal has always been in bringing authentic South Indian vegetarian food to a largely non-South Indian audience.
Filter coffee
“This business needs nurturing; it’s not about rapid expansion,” Vir reflects. “We want to grow steadily, stay true to who we are, and continue serving the community that’s been with us from the beginning.”
Responding to years of customer requests, the family recently launched Dakshinayan Masalas and is developing a line of dehydrated ready-to-eat favourites — rasam, sambar, upma, and chutneys. “These are flavours people grew up with — especially those now living abroad who crave a taste of home,” says Vir. Using gentle freeze-drying technology, the products retain their flavour and freshness with a long shelf life, making them ideal for travel and global shipping.
Starting with their Ahmedabad outlet, these products are now available at Dakshinayan locations, with plans to expand into quick commerce and international markets. “It’s a small way to bring Dakshinayan into more homes,” Vir shares, “to reach those who carry its memory across oceans.” The goal is simple: start local, stay true, and scale with care—sharing a family tradition while keeping its heart intact.
Looking back, the family is proud of how far they’ve come — from a home kitchen to a beloved name in vegetarian dining, rooted in quiet perseverance, family support, and a love for good food. Beena recalls when they first sold batter in 2002 for '25 a kilo. “We didn’t set out to build something big,” she says. “We simply did what we loved—and it grew with us.”
She credits her father-in-law for encouraging her from the very beginning, at a time when few women were supported in scaling home ventures into businesses. “All I had to do was take that first step,” she reflects. “And everything followed.” To women holding onto quiet dreams, she offers this: “Start small, but start. One step can change your life.”
1997
It began when Beena decided to retail idli-dosa batter from home
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