Fireback brings Thai heat to Mumbai. Chef David Thompson talks flavour, chaos, chocolate, and why Thai food still thrills him, 40 years on
Chef David Thompson took Sunday mid day (and our 11-year-old plus one) straight into the kitchen for a hands-on masterclass in green Thai curry. Pic/Raj Patil
We’d been warned — Chef David Thompson’s humour is, well, esoteric. Bold, even. And more often than not, it kicks off with the F-word. But when we met him at EHV International’s Fireback Mumbai, he was calmer, more affable — still razor-sharp, and wickedly funny. His wit doesn’t keep you out — you feel like an insider in his jokes.
What followed was a fun, heartwarming conversation, after which he whisked us, along with our 11-year-old companion, straight into the kitchen to teach him how to make a proper green Thai curry.
Thompson is patient in the kitchen, generous with his time, and peppers his teaching with his signature dry humour. What emerges is far from the watered-down versions we’ve come to expect — it’s raw, robust, and unapologetically bold.
Widely regarded as one of the world’s leading authorities on Thai cuisine, Thompson brings far more than recipes to Fireback (named after Thailand’s national bird, the Siamese Fireback). First introduced in Goa last year, the concept builds on Thai cooking’s primal rhythm, where spice and texture aren’t mere accents, but integral to the structure. There’s no overthinking, no heavy-handed reinterpretation — just confident, flavour-forward food. Opening July 14 in Mumbai, the space is designed by Russell Sage Studio. and balances raw, tactile materials with clean lines and subtle nods to Thai design. A sculptural light feature undulates across the ceiling, casting a soft glow over the textured surfaces. Below, a long, sculpted bar anchors the room — easygoing by day, electric by night, much like the rhythm of Thai street life. At the helm is Brand Chef Kaustubh Haldipur, leading a crew that has been trained under Thompson in Bangkok. He says, “We are thrilled to bring Fireback to Mumbai. The food has proven to be bold, unique, and unlike most Thai offerings in the city. In a place like Mumbai, where diners are curious and open, this style will truly thrive. Working closely with Chef David, I’ve learned that Thai cuisine is about more than spice—it’s about rhythm, restraint, and deep respect for ingredients. We’re not reinventing the cuisine, just presenting it with honesty.”
Kaustubh Haldipur
The drinks programme follows suit. Crafted by Varun Sharma, Head of Bars at EHV International, the cocktails lean into Thai ingredients with inventive flair with drinks like The Thai Spiced Diablo that mixes tequila with tomato water and wasabi foam; the Tom Yum Highball pairs gin with guava and lemongrass cordial; while the Mango Rice takes cues from the iconic dessert, blending rum with mango and rice cordial. To complement the complexity of the food, Kevin Rodrigues has curated a thoughtful wine list, available by the glass. It is fruit-forward, aromatic, and perfectly lifts the spice.
The menu plays out like a quiet conversation between the familiar and the unexpected. We began with Miang Kham (Rs 595) — a textural betel leaf bundle layered with pomelo, toasted coconut, and roasted peanuts. The Spring Roll (Rs 595) with shiitake mushroom, garlic chives and glass noodles was comforting, while the Mushroom Larb (Rs 795), a northern-style herb salad with toasted rice powder and chilli, brought a gentler heat. The Pineapple Som Tam (Rs 595), a sweet-sour twist on the classic papaya salad, balanced tamarind, palm sugar and crushed peanuts with a punch of freshness.
Mango & Sticky rice
From the Josper grill, the Prawns Nahm Jim (Rs 1195) arrived smoky and succulent, with a lively mix of garlic, chillies, coriander root, lime, fish sauce, and palm sugar. And there was the Chicken Gorlae (Rs 675), marinated, double-basted, and triple-grilled.
The Mango sticky rice (Rs 750)was beautifully done — fragrant, not too sweet, and comforting. The Grilled banana (Rs 595) with Thai crispy roti and condensed milk ice cream was indulgent, unexpected, and the kind of dessert you don’t share — the perfect finish.
Spring roll; (right) Coconut and Galangal Soup
Fireback Mumbai
WHERE: Nilaya Anthology, Peninsula Corporate Park, Lower Parel
TO BOOK: 022 35387627
‘I want to go to Kerala and eventually work with farmers’
One word to describe the Fireback Mumbai launch?
Vivacious. Because it’s full of flavour, fun, new tastes — and maybe even a few dishes you haven’t tried before.
What’s one ingredient that never leaves your kitchen? Thai or otherwise.
If you ever want to bribe me — and I’m very open to it — bring chocolate. I adore it. Luckily, we never use it in Thai food, or I’d be as fat as a hog. It’s my comfort food.
David Thompson
What draws you to Thai cuisine after all these years?
It’s an incredibly complex cuisine. Deep regional differences, refined techniques, elegant seasoning — it keeps you learning. The complexity itself isn’t joyful, but when it all comes together on the plate, it is a joy.
Have you tried any Mumbai street food yet?
Barely! Rohit [Khattar, Founder of EHV International] keeps taking me to every Thai restaurant in India. But I did sneak out two nights ago — we had kebabs somewhere. I want more of that. I want to eat at a market. I’m a cook.
What’s the spiciest dish you’ve ever made?
Are we talking food — or revenge? [laughs] Early in my career, I was heavy-handed with chilli. I’d replace every green veg with green chillies. It was absurd. So yes, jungle curries, green curries — some of those were dangerous. Not always intentionally.
What makes Fireback different from your other restaurants?
We’re cooking Thai food in India — and the ingredients tell their own story. Your lemongrass has less floral notes, and galangal is drier. They’re different, and that’s not a bad thing. You can’t replicate a cuisine precisely when you’re thousands of kilometres away. You get outsmarted by a vegetable.
Miang Kham
Do you import all the ingredients then?
A few, yes. But mostly we work with Indian suppliers we’ve known since Goa. The produce is good — it just has its own character. Not the same as Thailand, but that’s okay. There’s also recipe drift — cooks tend to lean into what they remember or prefer. That changes things, too. And of course, there’s the customer, with all their preferences, assumptions, and strong opinions.
Do you barefoot in Bangkok or blindfolded in Mumbai?
If you said earplugs in Mumbai, maybe! What’s with the horns here? But yes — barefoot in Bangkok. It’s my town. It’s sweet, warm, funny, and completely beguiling like the food.
Are there any chefs in India you’d like to collaborate with?
There are chefs I’d love to eat with. Like Hussain Shahzad from The Bombay Canteen, O Pedro and Papa’s. He is so charming, and from what I’ve heard, he’s the best.
One Indian ingredient you want to explore more deeply?
I want to go down to Kerala. Explore green peppercorns and lemongrass to see things being grown. Eventually, I’d like to work with farmers.
For now, the focus is on Mumbai. But there are plans. You’ll see.
Sweet, salty, sour or spicy - what wins?
All of them. I’m a glutton. But a touch of palm sugar? That sweetens me.
A dish that recently blew your mind?
Durian. It was durian season in Bangkok, and we had glorious, stinky, unctuous durian. Also, a curry I had at Comorin — a Lucknow-style nihari made with jackfruit, cardamom, and almonds. It was elegant, surprising, and beautifully balanced.
Most underrated Thai dish?
Nam prik — a pungent relish made with shrimp paste, chillies, and garlic and eaten with raw veg and grilled fish. Thais love it. But you never see it abroad. It’s ancient — older than curries — and when it’s done right, it sings.
Passion or precision — which one do you chase?
I still feel the same joy cooking as I did 40 years ago. I do my research, then forget it. Because when I cook, I follow taste. It’s intuitive. My tongue leads. It’s not conscious any more — it’s habit, it’s muscle memory.
What other city in India do you see Fireback expanding to?
Anywhere big — Delhi, Kolkata. Goa is charming, but it’s too seasonal. You need a steady base of curious, engaged diners. Mumbai has that.
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