Prepare for savoury evenings in Worli Koliwada at this new bar

Amuse Bouche – Sushi

A girl walks into a bar. Correction. A non-cocktail drinker walks into a bar. Two hours later, she might have to re-evaluate her alcohol preferences. That kind of turnaround takes possibly years, but this writer got the portkey entry on an evening when inspired R&D staged a six-act showcase at Slink & Bardot's (S&B) newest offering - Koliwada Cocktail Club (KCC). The 25-seater eked out in one of the velvety-vibe sections within Thadani House, is a bar within a bar. It is helmed by the S&B's hit duo, Vicky Singh and Riyaaz Amlani. Singh joins us for a chat, as Guru Tripathy, head bartender and his team, ensures each course has our full attention.

Vicky Singh and Guru Tripathy with the grid-like bar in the backdrop of the Koliwada Cocktail Club. PICS/ASHISH RAJE

"This menu took two years to conceptualise; it's our labour of love. We wanted to craft savoury cocktails because people mistakenly believe that cocktails can only be sweet. On an average, we stir 100 cocktails a day, so our patrons believe we can do it well," explains Singh, in between courses. When Singh, a veteran on Mumbai's F&B scene, tells us he wanted the menu to create surprise, we believe him. "Our character emerges from its unique neighbourhood," he says, referring to the choice of name (Koliwada Cocktail Club). "A large part of Slink & Bardot's charm is this Koliwada. We've never shied away from the location, and are proud of it." In our head, we join the dots. Moments earlier, Singh reminisced of his sea-faring adventures, thanks to his father's sailing background. Worli Koliwada is a stone's throw away, where bobbing boats have done their time navigating the waters of the Arabian Sea. Coincidence or serendipity?

We soak in the theatre from the front row. Tripathy explains the dripping process for one of the courses. Singh warns, "Each drink gets progressively stronger; just like with food, where portions get meatier, larger." The bar bites, ranging from Pork Belly Quesadilla (R955, with Jalapeno Sour Cream, Coriander Oil), to Aged Cheese Toastie (R955, with Giardiniera, Beetroot Jam) and Crispy Fried Okra (R575, with Buransh Salt, Huancaina Sauce), are classic crowd pleasers.

The R&D would have been critical, surely. "A large part of the experience is to make mistakes. We encourage our young, experimental team to mess things up. I laid out my vision, and left the rest to them. Many iterations, and boozy evenings later, this happened. It's been rewarding," he smiles, revealing that the kitchen and bar teams worked in tandem to nail the varied flavour profiles.

He drops an interesting descriptor to sum up the six-act show, "I call this menu a jewellery box - with its little, curious compartments. It's an extension of the discovery at Slink & Bardot; it keeps unravelling around every corner."

Amuse Bouche - Sushi A saline show-opener; the palate is greeted with Japanese Toasted Sushi Rice Vodka, Compressed Watermelon and Cucumber Wine. If sushi was reshaped as a cocktail, this would come close. It's served with Nori, Cured Watermelon Sushi and Goat's Cheese.

Soup - Gazpacho This savoury course stirs the idea of ‘soup' as a refreshing cocktail. Tequila, House Gazpacho and Salted Celery Air combine to create a storied installation. It arrives as a bubbly lab experiment, and stages a funky mix of drama and substance. The Tomato Tart, Mozzarella Filo, Pickled Cucumber and Basil, and Goat's Cheese with Nori, add chic appeal to the ensemble.

Salad - Tam Som Bursting with botanical flavours, this course made with Tanqueray London Dry Gin, Fermented Gari, Sonic, Pickled Mango and Raw Papaya, and Chill-Filtered Nitro, is zesty. We were expecting a bigger flavour bomb from the Candied Som Tam Peanuts and Crab Furikake bites.

Appetizer - Tamales Not meant for the weak-hearted. This offing crafted from Corn Husk Smoked Tequila, Chipotle and Jalapeno, Charred Corn and Chicken Stock, is as full-bodied as it gets. It is served with Corn Tostada, Tajin, Pickled Jalapenos and Coriander. The spicy, umami-leaning notes offer a teaser for the next course.

Main Course - Morel Created from Morel Glaze, Morel Infused Singleton 12 YO Whisky and Rye Whisky, it spells layered decadence. Umami holds centrestage, and is served with Miso Morel. As a classic literature buff, it teleported us (cocktail in hand, of course) to the dark, mysterious moors of Wuthering Heights. Heathcliff, here we come!

Dessert - Rocky Road The finale is a show-stopping act. This indulgent cocktail tempts with its play on sweetness levels. The dark rum, chocolate, and coffee-laced notes with chocolate chip cookie ice cream, and torched meringue evoke drama.

Koliwada Cocktail Club (KCC)

Opens June 3
At Thadani House 329/A, opposite Indian Coast Guard, Worli Koliwada.
Time 6 pm to 1.30 am (Sunday to Thursday)
CALL 9326965643 (Reservations only)
COST 6 cocktails (Rs 8500+ taxes); any 4 cocktails (Rs 6000+ taxes)

Bar Tip

If you use liquid nitrogen, alcohol freezes instantly