Maverick chef Gaggan Anand says rebellion helped redefine Indian fine dining on global stage

Gaggan Anand at the interaction. Pic Courtesy/Phorum Pandya

Looking every bit the funky professor, Gaggan Anand was in the city for a five-day residency at the Masque Lab. Before he wrapped up his guest shift, along with restaurateur Aditi Dugar and Raaj Sanghvi of Culinary Culture, the trio hosted Khatta Meetha, an afternoon of three panel discussions with restaurateurs, chefs, creators and cultural voices. Everything from the impact of influencers, to making Indian food affordable, to all about fine dining, was discussed.

"For me, to share my success is not just talking about my own rights, but rather how we create and give India back something. The idea is to also inspire the younger generation," Anand, dressed in a Balenciaga shirt with ice cream print and shorts, shared.

Excerpts from the interview.

Inception of Gaggan

When we were training, we chefs were slaves in the kitchen; it was a thankless job. In the last 26 years of being a chef, the profession has got its due attention. Earlier, we were underrated and manipulated. We could never put our thoughts on a plate; that was the beginning of Gaggan. Fifteen years on, I've built Gaggan at Louis Vuitton. I wanted to prove that an Indian chef could open a fine dining restaurant with the world's biggest luxury brand. Now, the point is proven.

On banning phones at his Bangkok restaurant

After Covid-19, I wanted to quit Instagram as I think it is toxic. The phone cannot taste. I was born different, I was born to be arrogant, so I rebel in every way. We put salt with our hands, not a machine. I want to translate that analogue. The phone cannot taste. With Gaggan, I wanted one restaurant in the world, at my stature, who happens to be Indian, who says no to phones. Who says no to social media? I want you as a person and not as an influencer. But at Raga, please use your phones.

On art, creativity and greed

Art is expensive and luxury is a one-way ticket. While creating art, I also believe in giving back to the community, including the farmers, to ensure fair trade. I write my own menu. I take eight months to write a menu on a big art paper. And then I draw the dishes. Abroad, the chefs, however big, will still be cooking for you. Greed is not always money. Greed could be a status. Greed could be aspiration and inspiration.