All you need to know about this new restaurant in Mumbai

22 June,2025 09:45 AM IST |  Mumbai  |  Nasrin Modak Siddiqi

Step into a moody, opulent world where old-world glamour meets bold Cantonese and Sichuan cuisine served with a side of theatre, nostalgia, and smoke

The space is layered with carefully chosen details like embroidered layered links artwork with cranes and koi fish motifs


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Flashback to 1920s Shanghai - a heady mix of jazz clubs, opium dens, warlords, and Western decadence. Glamour and grit collided under flickering neon in what was then called the Paris of the East. Amid this chaos, the bioscope emerged as a portal to another world - projecting silent, black-and-white fantasies that bridged the East and West. In smoke-filled theatres, audiences watched in awe as moving images lit up the screen, while outside, revolution simmered, and the city pulsed with unrest. The bioscope wasn't just a novelty; it was escape, provocation, and the beginning of cinema as a cultural force.


Vintage tiffin boxes, and hand-blown glass bottles, each element referencing Southeast Asia's shared visual lexicon

At the Fairmont Mumbai, the newly launched restaurant Oryn channels this cinematic past into a sharp, immersive dining experience specialising in Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine. Vintage bioscopes and a large-scale knot installation greet you at the entrance. Inside the dining room, restored relics from the travelling cinema era ground the space in history.

The drama continues, featuring maroon velvet drapes, gold accents, and shadow lights that recall old Shanghai picture houses without slipping into cliché. A hand-embroidered dragon crafted from wire mesh and beadwork takes centre stage, glinting softly under warm lights. In the second private dining room, an artwork made entirely of Chinese infinity knots threads together cultural symbolism and colour theory, blending auspicious reds with subtle blues and greens.


EDMAME AND CHIVES DUMPLING

Dining at Oryn is centred around the Chinese tradition of sharing - where food serves as a medium for connection. Plates arrive at the centre of the table, encouraging conversation and a collective tasting of bold Sichuan and Cantonese flavours. The menu leans into authenticity but isn't shy about drama. Think smoking bowls, sizzling woks, dramatic cutlery and tableside rituals like the Peking Duck Ceremony to elevate the meal into performance. While every dish is designed to hit deep, flavourful notes - spicy, numbing, and umami-rich; the modern techniques and plating keep the presentation crisp and contemporary.


King Prawns Golden Garlic

Like the visually elegant Scallops Dumpling we tried. It was all about finesse - thin, almost translucent skin and a juicy filling served in volcanic ash plate. You get a burst of umami and gingery warmth with each bite, followed by a slight chew from the skin. So was the Edmame and Chives Dumpling that had a fresh earthy flavour that blended the subtle sweetness of edamame, cut by the sharpness of chives. Our favourite was the Pan-seared Turnip Cake. A contrast of textures, the golden crust gives way to a soft, almost pudding-like centre.

The Oryn Chicken had tender cubes coated in a glossy, savoury glaze. Smoky from the wok, slightly garlicky, with a hint of pepper. Comforting, but with a kick and a balance of heat and umami. The Prawns Golden Garlic in a sea urchin bowl was deceptively simple - king prawns in bold, wok-tossed flavour with a slight hint of sesame and chilli in the end. The Lobster Hot Garlic was bold and aromatic with tender meat in a rich garlic chilli glaze. For dessert, we tried the Zen Crust - sweet and tangy, and some smoky drama - it was the perfect ending to our meal.


Zen Crunch and Grounded (wood+earth)

Director of Culinary, Prasad Metrani tells us the difference between the two core cuisines at Oryn. "If Cantonese cuisine whispers with elegance, Sichuan roars with rebellion. Each province adds its own dialect to the language of flavour. We want guests to experience different eras and moods. Whether it's the umami richness of fermented black beans or the sudden bite of chilli oil, Chinese regional cuisines don't just feed - they tell stories. Our vegetarian fare is a strong focus, with dishes tailored to Mumbai's palate.

Theatrical tableside finishes - such as stirring Claypot Rice in front of guests - add freshness and drama. It's not just plating; it's performance. Our ingredients are thoughtfully sourced with specialty spices from China for authenticity and produce from local farmers to support Indian agro-ecology. Even the crockery is curated - soft-shell crab served in crab-shaped ware, scallops in sea urchin bowls - where food and form tell a shared story. Every dish is a journey. At Oryn, flavour, culture, and artistry come together on every plate.

The cocktail programme mirrors this theatrical flair. Inspired by the infamous drinking dens of 1920s Shanghai, the bar serves up drinks crafted around premium Asian spirits, sake, and small-batch Japanese whiskies. Each cocktail is carefully crafted to complement the food - whether cutting through spice or amplifying the smoky depth. It's a well-considered pairing but with cinematic showmanship at its core.

Beyond the main dining room, the glasshouse terrace offers a striking shift in tone. Flooded with natural light by day and glowing with soft, moody hues by night, this space overlooks the city's edge and the nearby airport runway. Evenings here take on a pulse of their own, with live DJs, an immersive acoustic system, and an atmosphere that's equal parts opulent and electric. Our first impression of Oryn is that it excites with its moody, cinematic interiors and a menu that's both precise and playful. It's a space where style meets substance, without trying too hard.

Cantonese and Sichuan: Like silk and smoke

Cantonese cuisine, originating from China's Guangdong province, is renowned for its clean, balanced flavours and minimal use of spices. The focus is on freshness. Light seasoning with soy, ginger, and scallions lets the ingredients shine. Steaming and stir-frying keep textures crisp and meats tender, especially in seafood dishes. Dim sum is its most famous export. Small plates are shared over tea. From roast duck to delicate soups, Cantonese food is all about restraint and quiet elegance.

On the other hand, Sichuan cuisine, from China's southwest, is bold, fiery, and full of attitude. It's defined by the signature mala sensation - numbing heat from Sichuan peppercorns paired with deep chilli spice. Unlike the subtlety of Cantonese food, Sichuan cooking thrives on fermented sauces, bold aromatics, and layered complexity. Dishes like mapo tofu and hot pot bring heat, depth, and drama. Sichuan cuisine is not just spicy - it's a full-body flavour experience.

What's Peking Duck?

Peking Duck is one of China's most iconic dishes, born in the imperial kitchens of Beijing during the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644). Renowned for its crisp, amber-hued skin and succulent meat, it's traditionally served with Mandarin pancakes, scallions, and hoisin sauce in a ritual that's as much about theatre as it is about flavour. The process - air-drying, roasting, and precise carving - embodies centuries of culinary discipline and elegance.

At Oryn, this legend unfolds in three elegant courses. A whole duckling is roasted till golden and carved tableside. First, the crisp skin and tender meat is served in the classic Peking style. The second course is a clear, umami-rich duck broth with soy. Finally, the duck meat returns, stir-fried with your choice of Sichuan or black bean, sauce; offering a flavour-packed, modern finish. It's tradition reimagined.

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