07 December,2025 10:15 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
Prawn Tempura Maki
Filmmaker Karan Johar doesn't do ordinary - he sets a mood. Teaming up with Truepalate Hospitality founders Ankit Tayal, Anshul Goel, and Vartik Tihara (the collective behind One8 Commune, Pincode, and Jolene by the Sea), he unveils OJU - a Japanese dining space with global ambition that opened in NCR, earlier this year. "Gurugram was the ideal launchpad," says Tayal. "Its diners are curious, well-travelled, and open to new dining formats. It gave us the space to refine OJU's identity as a high-energy, ingredient-driven Japanese restaurant. Mumbai is the natural next step. The city's dining culture is fast, expressive, and influential, and opening here places the brand in a larger cultural conversation," he adds.
The Mumbai outpost is a moody, modern bar room that opens into a lush glasshouse terrace. Inside, a striking burl-veneer bar with antique brass detailing, a bold abstract artwork, and the sculptural floating âO' set the tone. Deep lounge chairs, intimate tables, and focused lighting create a warm, cocooned atmosphere built for slow drinks and long conversations. Outside, the mood softens with community tables, a live sushi and robata counter, and hand-painted dome lights inspired by Japanese landscapes. It's serene, tactile, and crafted for evenings that feel both elevated and easy.
Ume Sour and Robata-Grilled Baby Chicken
The kitchen, helmed by Chef Mahmoud Mohamed Awadalla Gaber (Moh) and Chef Nitin Bhardwaj, is built on craft and discipline, seeming fast but fluid. Chef Moh, trained in Michelin-starred institutions such as Nobu, Mimi Kakushi, and Kodo, brings an instinct for clean flavours and rigorous technique. Chef Nitin, after two decades across India, Japan, Ghana, and the UAE - and a proud representation of India at the World Sushi Cup in Tokyo - roots the menu in tradition, while embracing modernity with ease.
"Every ferment, pickle, broth, reduction, and sauce is crafted in-house," says Bharadwaj. We started with Spinach with Gomadare Sauce (Rs 725), which had tender spinach folded into a nutty sesame gomadare, lifted by crispy leeks and a whisper of shio kombu dust. The Seaweed Salad Yuzu Goma (Rs 1295) was a bright, textural medley of seaweeds tied together with a citrus-nutty yuzu goma. The Bluefin Tuna Tataki with Lime Wafu (Rs 2475) was our favourite - seared edges, ruby rare centre, lifted by a tangy lime wafu. We felt the Chicken Gyoza with Chilli Garlic Wafu Sauce (Rs 725) could have been juicier and more flavourful, but the wafu sauce balanced it perfectly.
Bluefin Tuna Tataki and Donburi
For mains, we had the Mushroom Donabe with Seaweed Butter (Rs 1195), was short-grain rice cooked with mushroom dashi, studded with shimeji and shiitake, finished with seaweed-miso butter that melts into every grain - a warm hug in a pot. From the Sushi Bar, we had the Make Your Own Sushi Platter, choosing from nigiri, sashimi, and rolls - customisable and great for groups. Next was the Soft Shell Crab Tempura Roll with Niniku Sauce (Rs 1195) which had crisp crab and creamy heat from the niniku.
The Prawn Tempura Maki with Spicy Red Yuzu Kosho Mayo (Rs 1195) with red yuzu kosho mayo had zing, heat, and a little funk. We tried the Miso Black Cod (Rs 3995), which was silky, caramelised, and almost spoon-soft. One of the menu's most luxurious plates. Bharadwaj also sent us the Robata-Grilled Baby Chicken (Rs 1495), a smoky, savoury dish with ume gochujang butter that crisped the skin and left the meat juicy. Dessert was a show. The Seasonal Fruit Tokoroten (Rs 945) had a bit of theatre and a great mash of fruits in mitarashi syrup, balanced with coconut mochi and mango ice cream. Light, bright, and perfect after a rich meal.
Spinach with Gomadare Sauce and Make Your Own Sushi Platter
The beverage programme, led by Mukesh Patwal, mirrors Tokyo precision and global fluidity. As one of India's most accomplished bartenders and the winner of Best Bartender of the Year 2025, he brings a level of technical credibility few new launches can claim. For him, it is flavour first, technique second, the guest always at the centre. The result is a menu of cocktails and highballs that feels quietly confident rather than flashy.
"The cocktail programme here is Japanese restraint meets Peruvian warmth," says Patwal, acknowledging that cocktails today must be both narrative-led and sessionable. Interestingly, there are highballs, inspired by izakaya culture, that lean into clarity, balance, and conviviality and a menu structured around the lunar cycle, guiding guests from lighter notes to deeper, moodier flavours as the evening unfolds. Think Strawberries & Cream, Ume Sour, Ponzu, Piccolo and Call Me Complex.
In mocktails, we tried Brewno (Rs 450), which was coffee-leaning, refreshing, and surprisingly light. Island (Rs 450) was tropical but not cloying with its fruit tones. The Shibuya Sun was citrusy, sunny, zesty. And a true mood-lifter. The Spice Route had warm spices and gentle heat.
Mumbai has long needed a Japanese restaurant that sits comfortably between the hyper-premium and the mass-market. "OJU fills that space - serious about ingredients and craft, but relaxed, playful, and approachable. It delivers quality and energy without the stiffness that often characterises the category," Tayal signs off.