Mannrangi, an all-day lounge in Goregaon, is a promise of Indian food from every corner of the map
Chicken bhujing
Food: Hearty
Ambience: Impeccable
Service: Loungy
Cost: Reasonable
Verdict: 2/3
Having lived in Mumbai all our lives, we've abided by one thumb rule: Don't take the Virar local if you need to alight at Andheri. As we scan through the brunch menu at Mannrangi, a contemporary Indian resto-lounge nestled on the 13th floor of First Avenue, our eyes stop at chicken bhujing ('225), a combination of poha and chicken, a product of the Vasai-Virar belt. We hop onto this culinary train without hesitation, along with a glass of mulled wine ('349) and a rasa-m-ojito ('500).
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Gulab jamonk
The flat poha made with a green masala is packed with the flavours of mustard seeds, ginger and coriander; and the grilled chicken pieces are marinated in the same green chutney rub and finished in the tandoor. The dish is our first taste of bhujing, and while we are certain we want to try the original, this version leaves a delicious impression on our palates.
The white rum in the rasam cocktail is infused with garlic and it is yet another flavour bomb without being too spicy. The mulled wine is humble and palatable with a dominant cinnamon-y flavour, though we'd have preferred if it had the spicier note of nutmeg and cloves. We take the next train to Surat, via ghotala ('225), a mash-up of scrambled, omelette and shredded eggs in desi bhurji masala topped with cheese. Paired with a soft, buttery pav, this is the gateway to bhurji heaven. Gotala means "jumbled up" in Gujarati, and this one is worth interfering in.
Gotala
Having lapped up all the food so far, the next halt is in faroff Punjab with Amritsari geele chole with kulcha ('375). Now that we live in Delhi and frequent haunts in the capital city, we are sceptical about this version, but give it a shot. The chole comes with a side of watery sauce made with tamarind, red chillies and onion. It gives the chole a lift and we have it kulche with black sesame seeds and coriander. We'll be honest, we miss the rustic, masaledaar version of Chandni Chowk but this version is good too.
Our train ride ends with Goa's serradura ('175) and sare jahaan ka gulab jamonk ('195), which comes with two injections of 15 ml rum. We inject it into the gulab jamun. The serradura, which has its origins in Macao and has roots in Portuguese cuisine, has alternate layers of cream and biscuit dust and the former is easy on the palate. The warm gulab jamonk leaves a spirited aftertaste on the palate. We will go back for a taste of North East chicken, sai bhaji and poriyal. The menu is a fun take on Indian food, sticks to the traditional palate chart, and yet manages to add modern-day tweaks.
Serradura. Pics/Phorum Dalal
At Mannrangi, 13th floor, First Avenue, opposite Inorbit Mall, Goregaon-Mulund Link Road, Malad West.
Time 12.30 pm to 1 am
Call 7776072072
4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0.5/4 Average. Mannrangi didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
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