Chicken Chettinad roll at Andheri's new late night takeaway joint is a must try

Nov 09, 2017, 15:50 IST | Shunashir Sen

Andheri boasts of yet another takeaway to choose from that delivers competent desi khana till 4 am

The nocturnal nature of the film and TV junta in Andheri - where people working 9-to-5 jobs are as rare as logic in a mainstream Bollywood movie - is evident in the number of late-night delivery joints that have mushroomed in the suburb.

Old school Goan prawn curry combo
Old school Goan prawn curry combo

Rolls and Bowls on Yari Road is one of the latest additions to that list, and we checked it out at around 1 am on a weekday to see how it stacks up against the competition.

Chicken Chettinad roll
Chicken Chettinad roll

The eatery's menu is a cross-country affair. Keeping in line with that, we call for mushroom tikka ('225), mutton baida roti ('225), old school Goan prawn curry Combo ('395) and Chicken Chettinad roll ('225), covering the northern, western and southern sections of the Indian culinary map. The order takes just under half an hour to arrive, which, we suspect, has more to do with our proximity to the eatery than a delivery system modelled after pizza chains.

We dig into the mushroom tikka first, which consists of bite-sized morsels that are gone in 60 seconds. That goes to show how delectable the starter is. But it also shows that in terms of quantity, you'd be better off sticking to a family pack of chips in case you're throwing a party.

Mushroom tikka
Mushroom tikka

The baida roti is a Mumbai invention, and keep a bottle of water handy for this version. It's non-greasy and flavourful, but packed with lethal bits of green chilli that burn the tongue with as little warning as the country got about demonetisation.

The old school Goan prawn curry combo, listed under the Bowls section of the menu, arrives in a plastic bowl, mixed with long-grain rice. The prawns, thankfully, are not of the shrivelled, shrimp-like lunch-home variety. However, the curry itself has something missing and we struggle to put our finger on it. Is it the salt? Is it the amount of grated coconut? Or is it that the eatery could have saved some of its chillies from the baida roti and instead put it in this dish? Unfortunately, we are still scratching our heads over it.

The chicken Chettinad roll, though, is a winner. The filling is heavy on curry leaves and would get a thumbs-up from your neighbourhood anna who sells idli-dosa from his cycle in the mornings. And it's wrapped in a tandoori roti, which makes this item a rather unusual cross between what you'd get at a Punjabi dhaba and at a mess in Chennai. So, the next time we order from Rolls and Bowls (which we have half a mind of doing), we are definitely getting one more of these.

At 23, Moon Dust Bungalow, JP Road,
7 pm to 4 am
Call 30151873

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