Waah, ustaad!

As a Qureshi a family name synonymous with Awadhi cuisine in not just the gullies of Lucknow but also across India since the British rule chef Abdul Salam Qureshi was initiated into the kitchen quite earlyGalawat ke kebab and ulta tawa ka parathaldquoIn those days the master chef or ustaad wouldnrsquot allow freshers to touch even the spoon but I was adamant on learning So Irsquod skip school from the age of nine or 10 to wander into the kitchen no matter how much ustaad his uncle and Padma Shri chef Imtiaz Qureshi reprimanded merdquo reminisces 69yearold Qureshi who has since reigned over fivestar kitchens for over 40 years creating gastronomic almost cultlike havens including Bukhara and Masala Art in New Delhi and Baghicha in Mumbai And now armed with his bag of masalas he is dishing out Awadhi delicacies for The Lucknow Chronicles festival at Powairsquos Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre HotelSewai ka muzafarExecutive chef Gautam Mehrishi had been toying with this idea to begin the year on a positive note ldquoAnd what better place than Lucknow The city is known for its meethi zubaan and royal food Chef Qureshirsquos name was the first that popped up as he is a legend I remember telling him that I donrsquot want the fivestar touch I need the authentic taste of Lucknow and he said lsquoThatrsquos what my hands are forrsquordquo jokes Mehrishi whose association with Qureshi dates back to their Taj Palace days in New DelhiGajar aur sev ka kheerAnd indeed it is the hands and their special blend of masalas that contribute to the genius of the Qureshis the Lucknowbased master chef shares ldquoMy mama and ustaad Imtiaz Qureshi learnt his culinary lessons from the late Haji Ishaq Qureshi Ustaad was the one who opened up our flavours to the fivestarsrdquo explains Qureshi who has banked on their ancient wisdom and added his own modern tweaks to reinvent the cuisine of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah ldquoThe presentation is new for the lsquoInstagram generationrsquo but at its heart are the same desi techniquesrdquoAwadhi biryaniThe chefrsquos play with masalas is evident in the menu which chronicles the sights and sounds of the erstwhile city of nawabs We begin with a hot and sweet tandoori amrood served with tiranga paneer a welcome break from the usual vegetarian kebabs Wedges of the fruit are stuffed with a filling comprising its pulp mawa and spices the chef revealsNalli Nihari PicsSameer MarkandeNext up is murgh ke parchhe tender chicken breast marinated in a coarse spicy masala blend that is Qureshirsquos version of mutton passanda and haldi mirch ka jheenga which stands out for the pleasant whiff of turmeric But itrsquos the galawat ke kebab that really elevates Qureshirsquos mastery to another level Every bite melts on the tongue with mini parathas made on ulta tawa adding a hint of sweetnessChef Abdul QureshiWhile we take a moment to appreciate it the Awadhi gosht dum parda biryani arrives bringing with it the sweet aroma of saffron When we remark how light the biryani and the nalli nihari both signature dishes of the cuisine are Qureshi informs us ldquoOur ancestors devised the masalas in such a way that the food although rich digests easilyrdquoGautam MehrishiAs we wrap up with a toasty shahi tukda a creamy and wintry gajar aur sev ka kheer and sewai ka muzafar vermicelli roasted and soaked in saffron flavoured sugar syrup we canrsquot help but notice the lingering aroma of masalas on our fingertips ldquoThatrsquos his specialty Even if you use soap the smell will stayrdquo Mehrishi informs adding they will be handing out to diners a slice of Qureshirsquos wisdom as test tubes filled with his spice blends Now thatrsquos a meal to rememberTill February 7 7 pm to 11 pmAt Lake View Cafe Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel PowaiCost Rs 2945 onwards