Will Mumbai’s new-age Irani cafes be able to revive the fading tradition?

Amidst the modernity and fast-paced lifestyle of Mumbai and its neighbours, one often comes across a quaint Irani cafe that has a distinct charm and culinary delight. Irani cafes serve as more than just places to grab a quick bite–they are living relics of a bygone era. Most cafes were established during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries when Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran settled in India, particularly Mumbai and eventually became an integral part of the citys societal fabric. In the report titled Are Mumbais Irani cafes fading out, mid-day explored why the numbers of Irani cafes had gone down in number with many respondents saying that these quaint cafes were dying down due to various reasons but the overlapping reasons stated by all were the desire to explore new arenas and not desiring to sit behind a ‘galla by the newer generations. Preservation of Irani cafes However, the Irani cafes–offering a unique blend of Persian and Indian cuisine and a welcoming atmosphere that transcends social boundaries–need to be preserved, primarily because it is a cultural heritage site. These cafés are more than simply cuisine; they are a snapshot of history, reflecting the varied influences that have defined Mumbais identity. Every part of an Irani café, from the unique design of marble tabletops, bentwood seats, and ceiling fans to the menu items of bun maska, chai, and keema pav, tells a tale about the citys history. Entrance of Irani Canteen at Thane/ Instagram Moreover, Irani cafes serve as invaluable community spaces where people from all walks of life come together to share conversations, laughter and moments of respite from the chaos of urban life. Whether its businessmen discussing deals over a cup of tea, college students catching up after classes, or families enjoying a leisurely breakfast on weekends, these cafes foster a sense of belonging and camaraderie that is increasingly rare in todays digital age. Resurgence of Irani cafes In the last decade, even as other classic cafes are pulling the curtains, new Irani eateries have come up. In 2015, Mumbai got its first Irani cafe after a five-decade-long break–Cafe Irani Chaii at Mahim. In a way, it was the first to open the doors for the resurgence of the Irani cafes. When asked what was the reason behind doing so, Mansoor Showghi Yezdi, the owner of Cafe Irani Chaii, said he wanted to revive the legacy. Iranians immigrated to India with a belief that the people here will accept us with open arms and they did more. Irani cafes, I believe are also a way to show our gratitude. I desired to preserve the legacy Irani cafes have and thus began the cafe. Mansoor Showghi Yezdi opened Mumbais first Irani cafe after 5 decades/ Sourced Photo Mansoor Showghi Yezdi, who has also made an award-winning documentary titled Cafe Irani Chai, said the inception began from news reports about age-old Irani cafes shutting down in Mumbai. I was editing a documentary when I read a report about one Irani cafe shutting down and I successively saw more of such news reports. Cafe Irani Chai was conceptualised then and following the documentary, I opened Cafe Irani Chaii in 2015, Mansoor said. The double ‘i in the cafes name denotes the ties between Iran and India, he quipped. Yezdis voice cracked for a split second during the conversation when he recalled the conversation between him and his father (Late) Habibullah Showghi Yezdi wherein he informed the latter of his choice to become a filmmaker. When I was around a 10-12 year old child, I would accompany my father to the canteen at Plaza cinema. I would sneak into the auditorium and watch the film screening. I was enamoured by Dr V Shantaram and eventually decided to become a filmmaker. My father was heartbroken when I informed him of my decision, Mansoor, now approaching 70s, recounted. The documentary filmmaker-restauranteur said his father had sold their business, set up by his grandfather who immigrated from Iran to India in the 1800s, after the 1993 blast at Plaza Cinema. However, after reading those reports, I made a firm decision to revive this culture, he said. I keep unwell these days, but I know I am not dying before I open more branches of Cafe Irani Chaii, he remarked. Late Habibullah Showghi Yezdi/ Sourced Photo Since he began Cafe Irani Chaii, many more Irani eateries have come up. Yezdi says many establishments even used the same name as his and some even falsely claimed to be linked to his establishment. Despite having a trademark, I have never filed a case or taken legal action since I want more people to come and experience what Irani cafe is like, he said. Apart from Cafe Irani Chaii, Olive Bar and Kitchen started SodaBottleOpenerWala which is their ode to the Irani cafes. SBOW, as it is also called, blends the elements from a rustic Irani cafe with a modern-day bistro. Similarly, R. Irani Chai in Mumbais Sakinaka area is another quaint Irani cafe that has carved its own space in peoples hearts. Gastronomically speaking, there are many cloud kitchens run by Zoroastrian community members who are attempting to preserve the Iranian-Zoroastrian cuisine with all its intricate flavours, pointed out Pritish Dharurkar, one of the founders of Irani Canteen in Thane. Irani Canteen, which opened for the people on November 19, 2022, was started by five friends–Dharurkar, Rajas Sabde, Amey Dhadve, Devang Gole and Vedant Patil. All of us have been foodies and we would get up early in the morning and go to Irani cafes in south Mumbai. We always wanted to open our eatery and then we thought why not give Thane its first Irani cafe, Pritish explained the reason behind starting Irani Canteen. Other motive was to give people the feeling that they have been transported back to the good old days, he added. Harking on nostalgia The common theme across the new-age Irani cafes is nostalgia. Be it through their food or the decor, the restauranteurs have retained the grace of vintage decor, and traditional flavours of food. At both branches of Cafe Irani Chaii, I have ensured that all the decor resembles those from the past including bentwood chairs, checkered tiles and marbles for table tops. The patrons are gravitated towards the old-school charm, said Mansoor Showghi Yezdi. Dharurkar too echoed a similar sentiment and added, We wanted people in Thane to experience the old-school charm of these Irani cafes that we have relished in. We wanted the older generations to relive those memories. We extensively trained under a Parsi chef to present the food with as much accuracy as we can. Chai (tea) served at Irani Canteen in Thane/ Instagram While the professionals at Cafe Irani Chaii cook up a storm in their kitchen using family recipes of Yezdi, those at Irani Canteen rely on the training they underwent with the chef. Responding to a query about how they curated the menu, Sabde and Dharurkar said that they gradually introduced the traditional Zoroastrian Irani cuisine to the city. We have revised our menu at least a couple of times since we started in 2022. As peoples palette was familiarised with the basic Irani food, we started including more traditional items like Akhouri, they noted. They added, We plan to expand the menu and explore those dishes that are not cooked as often or are forgotten and present it to the patrons. We will conduct research and work in tandem with the community to do so. We are toying with the idea and will execute it when the time is right. Relevance with youth When asked how they balance the old-school charm and staying relevant with young patrons, Dharurkar noted that they have outdoor seating as well since the youngsters do like having an open seating area. Apart from outdoor seating, we have some fast food options like Maggi, and fries on our menu. We also serve old-school shakes; our milk shakes range is limited to the classic flavours, Dharurkar noted. He added that the team at Irani Canteen did not have to chart specific plans to attract the youngsters since most of the youth are excited to visit such old-school establishments. Many patrons come with their kids, they tell me they brought their children to show a slice of the world they grew up in. This piques their interest while the elders enjoy a part of their childhood, Yezdi added. Mohammed Hussain Showghi, Mansoor Showghi Yezdis son, helps in managing the cafe/ Sourced Photo He also said that they too have included food items like burgers in addition to their menu since the younger generations prefer to consume them. A little modernisation is necessary. We cant live in a bygone era, but can move forward with the old-school charm with the good from modernisation, he elaborated. Understanding the new boom in Irani Cafes When asked about the resurgence of the Irani cafes, culinary anthropologist and archaeologist Dr Kurush F Dalal told mid-day, The new-age Irani cafes are playing on nostalgia which is why their look and feel resembles the traditional Irani cafe. Because of the nostalgia again and because it was such a huge part of the past of the city and a lot of people have talked about them; a lot of people reminisced about them and they are the part of people growing up. So because of this, what is very obvious is that there is a space for them. Dalal further explained, There was a time and a place where they filled a specific niche. Now that niche might be gone, but part of that niche will come back to a certain extent. It (in the case of Irani cafes) has come back. The culinary anthropologist stated that some Irani cafes are brand new places or some like Jimmy Boy have revamped themselves and some of them are the same old, old places. There are small places like Cafe Dela Paix etc which have got a very loyal clientele. And they have been going for a very long time by themselves. Then there are some new places. So this cafe Irani Chaii thats come up in Mahim is a brand new place experience, the ambience. They added a few new dishes and they made it a little more friendly and you know they are doing very well for themselves and others are picking up on this, he said. When asked about why is it so crucial to get the food right, Kurush F Dalal said since the cafes hark on nostalgia, missing out on the nitty-gritty of the cuisine will only make the business cash-strapped.

Will Mumbai’s new-age Irani cafes be able to revive the fading tradition?

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