This, cave-like atmosphere in Juhu is where ancient Mesoamerican culture meets modern fusion, but don’t expect the ‘real deal’
Representation pic
On SV Road, heading from Vile Parle toward Juhu, a massive green tarpaulin shields the facade of a soon-to-open restaurant. On an commendable traffic-less Monday, we head to sample their offering. The stone-carved exterior hints at an intriguing theme, but little prepares you for the journey inside. Once you step in, the bustling city fades away into the depths of ancient Mesoamerican culture—reimagined through a contemporary fusion of flavours and storytelling.
Mexican beans and chicken pozole
Founded by serial restaurateurs Monika Rathore and Riya Goon, Kokino is yet another in-cave dining experience, but this one features stone-clad walls adorned with glowing hieroglyphs and design elements inspired by Mayan temples. These elaborate symbols, central to the Mayan writing system, once chronicled historical events and cultural legacies. Rathore explains, “Riya was fascinated by cave dining, and I wanted to recreate the mystique of the Mayan world through food—Kokino is where these visions converge.”
One wall embraces a cave’s raw, unpolished essence, while the opposite one showcases intricately finished hieroglyphs—a striking juxtaposition that tells a story of transformation. At one end stands a well-stocked bar, catering to a drinks programme crafted by mixologist Jishnu AJ. Dramatic elements add to the charm: dim lighting, smoke billowing from cauldrons perched on pillars, and live performers weaving a sense of enchantment. True to the spirit of ‘hip’ spots, the venue transitions into a buzzing bar after 10 pm.
Cacao butter
From dishes made with pure cacao butter—once considered the ‘food of the Gods’ by the Mayans—to hand-crafted cocktails inspired by ancient rituals, curiosity grows. “We spent a year and a half in R&D, studying codices and immersing ourselves in the Mayan way of life,” shares Rathore, adding, “When I visited a Mayan-themed restaurant in Goa, I was disappointed. Apart from a sculpture symbolising the era, there was nothing authentically Mayan. They served Asian food, too. I felt it was an injustice to a cuisine so rich in history—people just aren’t aware of it.”
The Mayan and Aztec civilisations, two advanced pre-Columbian cultures, shared a corn-based diet centred around the ‘three Sisters’—corn, beans, and squash—along with chilli peppers, tomatoes, and avocados. Goon explains, “For them, corn wasn’t just food—it was deeply spiritual, symbolising life, creation, and the connection between humans and the divine.” Traditional Mayan dishes like tamales, pozole, and pibil still endure, as do Aztec staples like tortillas, tlacoyos, atole, guacamole, and mixiotes. The Mayans also pioneered frothy chocolate drinks, the precursor to modern hot chocolate. These culinary traditions continue to shape Central American and Mexican cuisine today.
Mayan Jungle Churros and Jaguar’s Bite
We begin with the creamy, velvety mushroom cappuccino (Rs 450), topped with goat cheese milk foam and a dusting of cinnamon, hoping for a connection to Mayan and Aztec culinary traditions. However, neither goat cheese nor mushrooms are part of their diets, as dairy products were not included in their cuisine. Goon admits, “We’re attempting fusion because, let’s be honest, people would eventually get bored eating one type of cuisine.”
Next, we try the provencal veg pide (Rs 600)—popular, but not from the Mayan or Aztec traditions—and the grilled pear and mushroom pâté with goat cheese mousse on bell pepper jam crostini (R550) wasn’t pairing well. The gambas al ajilo served with soft bread (Rs 650) and the Spanish seafood paella (Rs 1190)—with bomba rice, prawns, fish, clams, squid, and edamame—made us question what cuisine we were really experiencing. Rice was not part of the ancient Mesoamerican diets; modern Latin American cuisine, influenced by Spanish colonisation, now features rice-based dishes like paella and arroz con pollo, which are far removed from the ancient traditions.
The only dish that felt close to authentic flavours was the Mexican beans and chicken pozole (Rs 500), a hearty, flavourful stew—believed to be a cure for everything—that captured the essence of traditional cuisine. However, while tacos were on the menu, a look at the broader offerings revealed a fusion of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and African influences—prompting us to wonder how this differs from the Goa Mayan restaurant serving dim sum. But we digress. The dessert, Kokino Forest (Rs 550), with churros, fresh brownie bites and cacao slabs, was definitely worth a mention and was a fine way to end the meal.
The dining concept delivers on theatrics, with spot-on interiors that transport you back in time. It offers excellent drinks and a cave-like atmosphere that evokes the essence of Mayan civilisations. However, this isn’t the place to be if you’re seeking authentic Mayan cuisine.
Where: Kokino—Mystic Mayan Experience, Shop No. 2, Ground Floor, Building S Square by Survee Shidal, Swami Vivekananda Road, Vile Parle West
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