Dive into Sindhi food this weekend in Khandala to enjoy its unique flavours

An overview of the many elements of a Sindhi Thali. Pics courtesy/Athiva Resort and Spa Khandala

There is something particularly evocative about Sindhi food. It carries the memory of a homeland left behind, the resilience of a community that rebuilt itself across borders, and recipes that have travelled through generations with remarkable grit. This month, the hills of Khandala become the setting for a culinary celebration as a special Sindhi food pop-up brings together family recipes, regional flavours and stories of migration on a plate. The experience offers a delicious window into one of India's rich yet often underrepresented cuisines.

Thali all the way

If you're headed to Athiva Resort (previously Duke's Retreat) in Khandala this weekend, try a sumptuous Sindhi feast featuring Thali experiences, bar bites and even high tea on request.

Dal Ki Tikki

"Sometimes, couples drop by for a weekend getaway, and when they order many items, it can get overwhelming. So, we decided to curate thalis around one main dish, and keep the other elements in tune with it, so they can enjoy a moment of Sindhi hospitality rather than just the dish. People who are unfamiliar with the cuisine find it easier to choose bits and bobs of everything rather than one large portion of a certain dish," says Bengaluru-based home chef, Deepa Chauhan, who is excited about whipping up this storm.

Dal Pakhwan

On offer are six thalis. The first is what Chauhan calls the Shaadi Ki Thali experience, which features the famed Kadhi Chawal and Alu Tuk along with a Palak (spinach) and Bhi (lotus stem) sabzi.

"This is typically a no-onion-garlic meal, which begins a family's wedding celebrations." The menu also features meat-based thalis. "People have a misconception that Sindhis are either pure vegetarians or carnivores, which is untrue. In fact, in certain omnivore Sindhi homes, there are members who don't consume non-vegetarian fare on Mondays or Tuesdays, or on auspicious days and specific week days," Chauhan explains.

Sindhi Biryani (right) a selection of traditional spices used in a Sindhi Biryani

River and the fish

Meat dishes include the Seyal Mutton (slow-cooked mutton curry) and Machi Mani (fish in a green masala), which Chauhan also prepared as a contestant in the seventh season of Master Chef India in 2023. "Those who watched Master Chef India, remember me for this dish. In Sindh, because of the Indus River, there was a lot of fishing, and interplay of the water and the land that reflected in our cuisine. So, while Pallu, which is the Hilsa of the Indus, is celebrated, and eaten on special occasions, communities living along the Indus also ate prawns and river fish. In the signature Sindhi style, we load it with a lot of greens," she elaborates.

Deepa Chauhan

"I'm also creating a Bheja -Bhalla Thali experience. In hotels, people prefer to not eat with their hands, with meat on the bone. So we decided to offer a clean experience," she reveals. Also on the menu are dishes that are rarely found on menus in restaurants including the Tidali Dal, made with three types of lentils and the Jowari Doda, made in Sindhi homes. Those who aren't keen to savour the full Thali experience can try the Gucchi Pulao and Sindhi Biryani.

The Sindhi Biryani

The Sindhi Biryani is different and it's got a distinct layering of greens and tomatoes. The masala in the biryani includes a sour element. It is not a documented or a traditional dish, like the Awadhi or the Hyderabadi biryani. This biryani masala isn't easily available in India.

Sindhi High Tea

When I was in London, I picked up a few packets. This biryani blew my mind. Dehydrated plums are used in its preparation. Since I don't find dehydrated plums easily in India, I started cooking with anardana (dried pomegranate seeds). Sindhis also prepare Mutton Pulao, which is closer to the Yakhni Pulao.

Bar Bites and High Tea

The Bar Bites include popular Sindhi snacks like the Dal Pakhwan, Dal Ki Tikki, Mirchi Ki Chaat, Kheema Tikki, a Tuk platter, Garlic Prawns, and Fotey Bhuggi Murghi (chicken with cardamom and pepper).

On the High Tea menu you can find Chauhan's childhood favourites like Tomato Basar Toast and Baby Meetha Lolas. Traditional mithai like Singhar Ji Mithai and Mohanthal will also be available.

ON June 12 to 14
TIME 11 am to 10: 30 pm (A la carte menu); high tea on request
AT A Diner, Athiva Resort & Spa (formerly The Duke's Retreat), Old Pune-Mumbai Highway (NH 48), Khandala.
COST Rs 1110 (high tea); (menu at a la carte prices)
Call 0124 4886700