Savour delicious East Indian-inspired dishes at this pop up in Mumbai

Bandra-styled grilled lamb chop in bottle masala

Be it the English, the Portuguese or the French, European colonists made an indelible mark in the evolution of the food Indians eat today. The Portuguese, in particular, have major contributions to Indian food along the West coast. They introduced the potato, cauliflower, okra, pineapple, papaya, cashew nut and tomato; these ingredients now form an intrinsic part of the cuisines of various Indian communities. Mumbai (with Bassein or Vasai, as the main port) experienced several changes under their rule, and the East Indian community is a living testament to history, preserving centuries'-old traditions while adapting to the modern world.

Himalayan trout chinchoni. PICS COURTESY/MICHAEL SWAMY

Often referred to as the original inhabitants of the cluster of Bombay's islands, the community had access to local produce as well as imports. Since Vasai was a major trading port, it welcomed Arab, Greek, Persian and Roman traders. Over time, East Indians of this region were introduced to Portuguese cooking techniques and ingredients. The cuisine continues to survive and thrive today, thanks to several chefs and caterers who call the many East Indian (erstwhile) villages in Mumbai their home.

Bombay masala arancini

Chefs Michael Swamy and Altamsh Patel will offer a modern representation of Indo-Portuguese cooking with Saudade and Spice: East Indian Food Memories, a three-day pop-up at Hilton Mumbai International Airport. Swamy, who is also a food and travel photographer, and food stylist, has authored books including The East Indian Kitchen. He is inspired and powered by the many recipes of his grandmother Ethel Da Silva, an East Indian who married a Goan.

Crumb fried lamb chops

The menu includes dishes such as khimad, a rustic spiced gin drink; risoles or pastry filled with mushroom and vegetables or prawns; coastal green masala smoked prawns, and breads such as fugias and chitaps among other dishes. There are many options for vegetarians too. "The menu includes bhujing, where smoked chicken is grilled on a tandoor and served with a biryani made from poha. This dish has a rich history to it as it was food for mill workers. My favourite is Bandra lamb chops," reveals Swamy. This preparation is made with bottle masala-rubbed Australian lamb chops, served over pearl barley in a coastal green masala mix.

A view of Matharpacady village, a quaint East Indian neighbourhood in Mazgaon. Pic/Sayyed Sameer Abedi

ON May 23 and 24, 7.30 pm onwards (dinner); May 25, 12 noon to 4 pm (brunch)
At Hilton Mumbai International Airport, Sahar, Andheri East.
CALL 8373919503
COST Rs 3500 onwards (dinner); Rs 4000 onwards (brunch)