This 100-day pop-up bar in Mumbai will blend nostalgic storytelling with experimentation

The cocktails at the pop-up will blend nostalgic storytelling with experimentation. Pics Courtesy/Port Kitchen & Bar; Eateratti

What makes a cocktail a quintessentially Mumbai cocktail? According to Eateratti, a food and drink strategy platform, the answer lies in plenty of experimentation, a dash of imagination, local and seasonal ingredients, and a measure of nostalgic storytelling from true-blue Mumbaikars. Now, strip away the snobbery that's come to be associated with the city's newfound cocktail culture and give it a good stir. Throw in a few personal anecdotes for good measure and repeat the process four times more. That's how you get One More Round, a 100-day pop-up bar curated by Gaurav Dabrai and Bansri Shah from Eateratti, in collaboration with Ishan Benegal of Mahalaxmi's PORT Kitchen and Bar. The popup is segmented into playful and somewhat irreverent 30-day menus, the first of which is currently being served at the venue and also celebrates PORT's liquor licence.

A cocktail from the menu

Sip your story

"We began with a menu inspired by being a wallflower at various parties, the bustling and not-so-bustling bars, and members-only clubs. Starting out with a low-key pilot that was a little more real and humorous, we were delighted to find that it evoked the reactions we were hoping for - people were calling out their friends and frenemies! That was our cue to develop a full-blown bar programme with PORT. We're now brainstorming our next concept that focuses on only local craft spirits. We're also in the rudimentary phases of exploring another idea of integrating art with cocktails," Dabrai shares. Elaborating on the creative process, the duo discloses that road to relevance and substance comes with a few disagreements, several experiments and endless iterations until their creations are deemed suitable to serve to guests.

Girl's Girl

Nostalgic nibbles

"The F&B space is stepping up as well with innovative (and limited edition) food pairings that comprise what Ishan Benegal describes as globally inspired vegetarian-forward plates. "We approach pairings as a dialogue between kitchen and bar, with seasonal ingredients setting the tone. The dishes are balanced by matching or contrasting flavours," he explains.

Bansri Shah

For instance, while bright, citrusy cocktails are paired with fresh, light dishes, bold, spirit-forward ones are treated to rich or umami preparations. "We also consider texture and pacing: something fizzy or highly acidic needs a little fat or starch to calm the palate, while a creamy or slow-cooked dish benefits from a cleaner, bitter counterpoint. Everything is tested together at the bar and pass; so the pairings feel natural, generous, and meant to be shared," he continues. As testimony to how personal this collaboration is, he points out that the cocktail named Nandan or Nothing, stems from PORT's special relationship with the Nandan coffee brand from their early days: "PORT was the first to retail Nandan before their own cafés opened, and it's still the coffee we brew at home and the restaurant. We're also bringing in other homegrown brands we believe in for this pop-up- more on those soon."

Ishan Benegal

Keeping it local

The next chapter of the popup will focus on what Shah calls ‘100% Local. 1000% Vocal.' "We will bring various craft and cool local brands - from Indian craft-made gins and tequilas to mixers and ingredients - to the forefront. Our menu reflects the bustling craft spirit movement, artisanal products, and locally sourced produce. Nothing on it will be imported." If you do make it in time to explore the current menu, the duo recommends Girl's Girl for the flavour profile and because the drink is based on someone they met while researching for the menu, as well as Sorted In Head & _ In Bed that's inspired by overheard conversations. But, if you want to truly blend in and keep it ‘quintessentially SoBo', do as the hosts did and ‘don't try too hard!'"

Till December 11
Time 7 pm onwards (except Mondays)
At PORT Kitchen & Bar, G5A Warehouse, Mahalaxmi.