A taste of tranquillity

A hearty spread of dal, amti, sukki bhaji, chicken in kala masala, besan, fodni cha bhaat, and bhakri — finished with shrikhand and a tall, cooling glass of chaas. Pics/Nasrin Modak Siddiqi

Over a hearty meal of dal, amti, sukki bhaji, chicken in kala masala, pit, fodni cha bhaat and bhakri alongside shrikhand and a tall glass of chaas and the guitarist crooning Milind Ingle's ‘garva' - we discovered the joys of a simple Maharashtrian thali at Panchratna, Gateway Nashik's fine dining restaurant. Helmed by Chef Taj Qureshi, we also savoured one of the finest shorbas, niharis and kebabs here. Qureshi brings Lucknow's Aminabad to the quiet greens of Ambad, where the hotel is located. "Ingredients play a deep role in ensuring that the flavours evoke nostalgia," he shares. It feels like a gentle pause between the city's restless energy and the calm of the hills.

TOMATO SHORBA

The hotel's architecture is rooted in Maratha heritage and inspired by the local Peshwai style - think stepped arches, jaali patterns, traditional motifs, natural textures, rich stone, and elegant material finishes. The paintings in the lobby tell the story of Nashik. So whether savouring a glass of wine from the vineyards, strolling barefoot on dew-kissed lawns, or enjoying the view, this sanctuary invites us to slow life down and make every moment linger.

On the banks of the sacred Godavari River, a quick 3.5-hour drive from Mumbai on the Samriddhi Expressway, is Maharashtra's oldest and most storied city, Nashik. What fascinated us was the mesmerising blend of the sacred and the spirited - here, pilgrims bathe in the Godavari at sunrise, and connoisseurs sip Chenin Blanc by sunset.

Sunil Narayan Wavre (right), the fourth generation of Kondaji Chivda which still captures Nashik's spirit

At the evening high tea by the pool, over batata vadas, kothimbir wadis, bhajiyas, samosas, and pillow-soft pav baked in-house, we watched the sky blush in dusk hues, listening to the hum of birds returning home. The Nandur Madhmeshwar Bird Sanctuary is close by - it is home to the Eastern Imperial Eagle, Bristled Grassbird, Woolly-necked Stork, Common Pochard, White Stork, and Peregrine Falcon.

Pandavleni caves

One morning, the staff drove us to Pandevleni Cave, barely a 10-minute drive from the hotel. We trekked 248 steps to reach the ancient group of 24 rock-cut Buddhist caves dating from the 2nd century BCE to the 6th century CE. At the top, the views of Nashik are mesmerising. Interestingly, they served as viharas (monasteries) for Buddhist monks, and feature intricately carved prayer halls, water cisterns, and ornate facades. The site is historically significant for its inscriptions that link it to powerful Satavahana and Kshatrapa rulers, offering a glimpse into the region's political and trade history. Back at the hotel, a 30-minute foot spa was just what we needed to soothe our aching heels.

Misal Pav and chai at Deccan Knot under the clear sky

For breakfast, we tried misal pav at Deccan Knot, a beautiful glasshouse restaurant with centuries-old trees offering their canopy. The spicy curry of sprouted moth beans (matki), topped with farsan and served with soft pav, packed a powerful punch to kick-start the day. A little later, we headed to Vallonné Vineyards near Mukhne Dam for a complimentary wine tasting by the hotel. The place offers more than just wine - it's an immersive sensory journey with lush views of the hills and a lake. During the harvest season (January to March), you can stroll through sun-kissed grapevines, inhale the earthy aroma of the soil, and watch the harvest come to life. For the wine tasting, we were led by the resident winemaker, who guided us through bold Malbecs, delicate Rosés, and rare Anokhee blends, sharing the story behind each bottle.

We stopped for lunch at the vineyard's Indian and continental restaurant, Yelloh, and bumped into phone photographer Karl Kolah and Kathak dancer and choreographer Aditya Garud, who were vineyard-hopping to pick some select wines to take back home. In recent decades, Nashik has earned a new identity as India's wine capital, thanks to its mild climate and fertile soil, which make it ideal for viticulture. Later that evening, we head back to the hotel for the Sunset Ritual, where the staff gather in the lobby to light traditional lamps while a flute player serenades with folk music to welcome the evening.

MATKA CHICKEN

The next morning, we exchanged notes on places to eat with Kolah and Garud who were headed to Shree Ambika for Nashik's legendary black misal. "Even at 10.30 a.m., there's a long queue of people waiting to get in. Shyam Sundar is another misal place we tried and loved," says Kolah. Nashik has a proud, meat-loving side, too that is rooted in Maharashtrian spice and countryside flavours. "For special mutton thali, we headed to Divtya Budhlya Machi. The meat was marinated in kala masala, making it the perfect ghat-style dish. Then one night, we were invited to My Oh My for some live music and cocktails," informs Garud.

Sipping where it all began - Vallonné Vineyards, one of the estates that helped shape Nashik's identity as India's wine capital

Suggested by the staff, we hunted down Kondaji Chivda, one of Nashik's most iconic snacks, founded in 1920 by Kondaji Gunaji Wavare as a humble home venture. The mix of crisp poha, roasted peanuts, dry coconut, and curry leaves with its signature spice blend is bold, addictive, and deeply nostalgic. Locals rave about its freshness and aroma - perfect for train journeys and chai-time alike.

SPECIAL MUTTON THALI and MISAL PAV AT SHYAM SUNDAR. Pic/KARL KOLAH

Today, the fourth generation of the Wavre family continues the tradition, keeping Kondaji Chivda's original flavour alive. More than a snack, it's a bite of Nashik's spirit: simple and full of character. On our way home, we stopped for lunch at Karishma Dhaba on Old Nashik Highway to savour their matka kabab (juicy chicken roasted in a matka) and simple chicken gravy in kala masala. The gravy was packed with flavours, and we scooped it with khameeri roti. We ended the meal with chai to get us back home.

Religious and mythological

Held on the Gateway Nashik's palatial grounds, this was a replica of the Trimbakeshwar Jatra that features a grand Nandi statue. The Jatra is an annual festival that draws devotees to the Trimbakeshwar Shiva Temple, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas

Nashik's origins trace back to the Ramayana. It is believed to be the site of Panchavati, where Lord Rama, Sita, and Lakshmana spent part of their exile. The city's name comes from Nasika (Sanskrit for nose), referencing the episode in which Lakshmana cut off the nose (nasika) of the demoness Shurpanakha. To this day, Nashik is a primary pilgrimage site, hosting the Kumbh Mela every 12 years - one of the largest religious gatherings in the world.