07 June,2026 11:01 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
Cafes near Boudhnath Stupa; (right) Family-run Shops near Boudhnath Stupa
The valley had turned purple with blooming jacaranda trees that had washed it in shades of lavender. Just for a few weeks, the pavements along Durbar Marg and Ratna Park, and the roadsides and parks in Lalitpur's quieter neighbourhoods, are carpeted with violet blossoms, creating a striking contrast against the valley's ancient temples, stupas and brick architecture.
Kathmandu in May is a beautiful sight to behold. Besides, one could sense the fresh hope that has enveloped the city after the March 2026 election, which upended Nepal's traditional political order. The relatively young rapper and structural engineer, Balen Shah, 36, and his Rastriya Swatantra Party won a sweeping parliamentary majority, ending decades of coalition politics dominated by the old-guard parties. The election followed mass youth-led anti-corruption protests in 2025 that forced the resignation of then-prime minister KP Sharma Oli. The locals are hopeful for a better future. Even our taxi driver regaled us with optimistic tales as Shah's magnum opus, Balidan, played on the car's stereo.
For our first meal in the city, as we checked into Moxy Kathmandu, the contemporary hotel near Thamel, we tried the bara with eggs. The chef had made these piping-hot fermented black lentil pancakes, whose taste sits somewhere between an uttapam, and a falafel, while being distinctly its own thing. Lightly crisp and golden from the griddle, it's not heavily spiced, allowing the lentils' earthy flavour to come through. We had the anda bara, topped with an egg which made it a complete meal.
Prashan Poudyal, our guide appointed by the hotel, is a young passionate trekker who knows the city and country inside out. Our first stop is at Boudhanath Stupa, the spiritual heart of Nepal's Tibetan Buddhist community. It is invigorating, with monasteries, prayer wheels and incense-filled lanes. Here, pilgrims and monks circle the massive white dome in a ritual known as kora, while the stupa's iconic all-seeing Buddha eyes gaze out across the valley.
Beyond its religious significance, Boudhnath is also a vibrant cultural hub, where you'll find some great Tibetan cafés, Sherpa eateries, and traditional Himalayan businesses, including the Boudha Stupa Thanka Center, where you can learn the art of thangka paintings. (PS: It takes years to master the art).
Poudyal tells us about these tiny home-run establishments of Sherpas, where you can hear the heavy sound of pounding. Here, the mountainous potatoes (rich in starch) are boiled and then pounded hard in a large wooden mortar with a heavy wooden pestle until they turn soft and silky. Then they are made into small dumplings and cooked in a simple soup of onion, garlic, and tomato. It's called rildok, and it melts in your mouth. Expert advice: sprinkle some timur, a tongue-tingling Nepali pepper, closely related to Szechuan pepper.
The café scene here is buzzing as well. We headed to Roadhouse Cafe and sat by the window, watching the beautiful stupa at dusk as pilgrims circumbulated it alongside tourists and shoppers. Back at the hotel, we tried some lipsmacking momos, chatpate, and hot dogs that were made to give us a glimpse of what people have after a night of intense partying at Thamel, the tourist hub of Kathmandu.
Waking up to sweeping views of the mountains from our room the next morning, we headed straight to the hills of Shivapuri for a scenic hike through forest trails. At the top were the sense of accomplishment from finishing a trek, panoramic views, and a stupa where young monks study Buddhist philosophy and scriptures. At the hotel's launch party that evening, the swish set of the Kathmandu party circuit arrived, dressed in their finest, ready to party at the rooftop pool bar overlooking the city's skyline and the mountains. The morning after, we headed for a morning walk to the local park and crossed a few lanes to reach the Biker's Café. Run by the Himalayan Java Coffee, a homegrown brand known for promoting locally grown, high-altitude Arabica beans from regions such as Gulmi, Syangja and Lalitpur. We packed back a Thamel Roast too.
Post breakfast, we headed to Patan Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest showcases of Newar architecture. Once the royal seat of the Malla kings, the square is famed for its intricately carved temples, courtyards and red-brick palaces. Despite the 2015 earthquake, it remains a vibrant cultural hub where traditions continue to thrive. We witnessed the Newari Bhim Ratharohan ritual, held when a person reaches exactly 77 years, seven months, and seven days of age. The elder is honoured as a living deity and paraded through the streets on a beautifully decorated chariot pulled by children and grandchildren.
Patan is one of the best places in Nepal to experience traditional Newari cuisine. The narrow lanes around the square are dotted with family-run khajas (eateries), old bhattis (taverns) and modern restaurants. Set within a beautiful courtyard, we tried the food at the museum café, starting with Newari bara, a whole plate of fried snacks, and next, the Newari fish thali, which came with leafy veggies, rice, dal, sweet curd, and fish. Poudyal got us barfi to try. Similar to the khoya variant back home, this one is denser in flavour. In Patan, get a bowl of sweet curd (juju dhau) and sel roti (ring-shaped sweet fried dough) any chance you get.
That night, we dined at Bhojan Griha, founded by Bharat Basnet, where we experienced traditional cuisine in a heritage setting while enjoying traditional music and dance from different parts of Nepal. Housed in a beautifully restored century-old, Rana-era building, the cultural programme is just as interesting as the food, including classics.
Post-dinner, we switched gears to experience Kathmandu's vibrant nightlife with a guided club-hopping tour by the hotel's team. We navigated the city's entertainment hubs of Durbar Marg and Thamel with VIP access to some of the capital's most popular venues, including Purple Haze Rock Bar, known for its live music scene and energetic crowds; Nova Club, a sleek late-night destination favoured by Kathmandu's young social set; and kept the party going late into the night.
The experience showcased how Kathmandu seamlessly shifts from ancient spirituality by day to cosmopolitan nightlife after dark. More importantly, it revealed a city that is rapidly evolving beyond its reputation as a trekking gateway, where centuries-old Newari culinary traditions, Himalayan ingredients and a new generation of hospitality are coming together to create one of South Asia's most compelling food and travel destinations.
. âTimur
. âYak cheese
. âHimalayan tea
. âHimalayan coffee
. âWild mushrooms
Long before Nepal became a nation, the Newaris were the traders, artisans, and rulers who shaped life in the Valley. Their cuisine is unlike the dal-bhat that most visitors associate with Nepal. It is festive, complex, and flavourful. A meal might begin with Samay Baji, a celebratory spread of beaten rice, buffalo meat, black soybeans and pickles; move on to smoky Choila, crisp-edged Bara lentil pancakes or Chatamari, a rice crepe often compared to a pizza; and end with sweet Yomari dumplings filled with jaggery and sesame. Every dish tells a story of trade routes, harvest cycles, religious rituals, and community gatherings.
Fermentation, seasonal eating, local sourcing, and nose-to-tail cooking have been part of Newari kitchens for centuries. The cuisine evolved at a crossroads where merchants from the Indian plains met traders from Tibet, creating a food culture that feels distinct.
A new generation is reclaiming indigenous ingredients and forgotten recipes with pride. Kathmandu's food scene so compelling right now because it isn't chasing trends but rediscovering itself.
