Immersing in the beauty of Pushkar's food and culture

Rajasthani thali fit for kings

At eye level, a lush green Aravalli belt encircles us. The crisp blue sky above is patched with grey clouds, threatening to burst. A veil of fog descends, cloaking the peaks. One could be in any hill station that comes to mind.

Drop your gaze down, and the sandy desert dunes of Pushkar remind one that it is Rajasthan. The monsoons are unexpectedly romantic in the desert state. Probably because you don't expect it to give the rugged terrain a lush, emerald touch.

Fish Pichola is made from freshwater rohu fish procured from the lake in Udaipur

It's 7 am in the morning and we're in Motisar, where a section of Aravallis between Ajmer and Pushkar earns the name of Nag Pahar, towering over Pushkar as a guardian.

ur detour ends in a fragrant field where third generation farmer 35-year-old Kaushal Parashar is tending to a field of desi gulabs. In the region, the petals of the local rose are a light pink blush. "We prune the plants in November and December, and by February to March they are in full bloom. I used to watch my Dadaji tend the farms, and now it is my turn," he tells us.

A lavish spread for high tea

The air is filled with a sweet fragrance of the roses, which are harvested and sent to factories that make gulab jal (rose water) and gulkand. The farm is adjacent to The Westin Pushkar Resort & Spa in Motisar where we checked in the day before.

Fish Pichola

That afternoon, Executive Chef Ashwini Kumar of the property has a special lunch dish planned for us, one we prepare together. The star ingredient is a freshwater rohu fish procured from Lake Pichola of Udaipur. Kumar's recipe leans into a royal legacy and pays homage to the history of the lake which was built in 1362 by the Picchu Banjara tribesmen to store water and enhanced in 1599 by Maharana Udai Singh II, who built the city around it.

(Left) Aarti at Badri ghat; (right) The dunes of Pushkar

We're assigned the task to shallow-fry fish pieces that have been marinated in turmeric powder, salt and ginger-garlic paste. He gives us a nod once they earn a golden-brown coat on each side. Next, he hands us another pan to bhunao (sauté) the masalas in oil. He tosses in local Mathania chillies, red chilli powder, turmeric, crushed coriander seeds and jeera. We add in the onions that sizzle in the oil and add the tomatoes after they turn a deep brown. As the oil separates from the paste, he adds in curd and green chillies. We add the gravy to the fish and give it a final few minutes on the pan. The fish is cooked to perfection, and the curry packs a punch of chillies, soothed with the curd base.

The sprawling resort designed as a wedding destination, is rain-kissed making the manicured verdant pathways perfect for an after-lunch long stroll. We take time out to walk barefoot on the grass, chasing the lapwings that scurry around us. When it pours, we make our way into the mini-theatre on the property to catch Anil Kapoor-Sridevi classic Lamhe (1991), the experience complete with buttery popcorn and nachos. We smirk as we hear a young Kapoor complain about the scorching heat.

Ashiwini Kumar

Evening rituals

Next day, we carve out an evening to visit the markets of Pushkar, where shops sell gulkand and gulab jal. The street leads to Jagatpita Brahma Mandir, which is the only temple dedicated to Lord Brahma to exist. A quintessential tourist checklist would have taken us to Brahma Ghat, the main among 52 ghats for the evening aarti, but the rains cut our detour and we ended up at a lesser-known, quieter Badri ghat. We take a spot and bask in the moment; the rains have raised the water levels, giving water snakes an easy squiggle onto the steps. Performed by a group of locals, sans tourists, we are gifted a stillness of soaking in the moment.

Street food alert

A travelogue is incomplete without street food that offers a rustic, local taste

Kadak Chai
In the world of specialty coffee, garam chai is the OG refresh button. At the entrance of Brahma temple, locals and tourists flock Mangal chai wala who makes small batches of fresh tea served in a kullad.

At: Mangal Chai, near Mela ground

Malpua
There is malpua, and then there is malpua of Pushkar, made with rabdi instead of flour. In Pushkar, this piping hot sweetmeat becomes extra special in the rains. After a ghat aarti, we stop for some garam malpua. If you have a sweeter tooth, they'll serve you a side of rabdi too.

At: Sarveshvar sweets Gau Ghat, Halwai Gali, Pushkar

Kadhi Kachori
Ajmer is famous for the shrine of Khwaja Moinuddin Hasan Chishti at Ajmer Sharif Darga. It is also famous for Kadhi Kachori. Pyaaz and lentil kachori is dunked in a thick kadhi and finished with khajur and green chutneys. Turn into Gol Piyau at Shankar Chaat Bhandar for this delicacy. While you are there, also try kesar lassi, with a dollop of malai to negate the spice kick.

At: Shankar Chaat Bhandar, Gol Piyau, Ajmer