29 March,2026 10:43 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
Chicken Katsu Sando
Afternoons in March can be gruelling. On one such sultry one, we walked into Portal, a new bistro-bar in Kala Ghoda by hospitality entrepreneur Punam H Singh. The space moves seamlessly from breakfast and coffee to small plates, wine, and cocktails by evening. It's hard to tell there was a dive bar there before: dark and gloomy. The current avatar breathes light. Singh's brief was clear: create a neighbourhood bistro that feels elevated but still homely. And, because it is in the art precinct, it should reflect history without feeling like a museum.
They preserved the neoclassical pillars and high ceilings, opening up the previously dark interiors with a new skylight and cobbled texture flooring. The palette with ivory, green, and deep accent tones with brushed gold accents were chosen to enhance light. Local artisans were brought in to capture the culture and spirit of the area. To complete the experience, a vinyl-led music programme is introduced with the Revolver Club to curate music nights and there'll be vinyl DJs to allow collectors and enthusiasts showcase their passion in a live setting.
All of this comes from Singh's wisdom with over three decades across the Taj Group of Hotels, FabIndia, Fine Foods, and co-founding Mustard in Goa and Mumbai (the latter shuttered during COVID-19).
"I wanted to study hotel management, but in the '80s, girls from so-called âgood families' weren't encouraged to enter hospitality. My parents said if I cleared the entrance exam, they'll consider it. I did, and joined IHM Pusa, followed by training at The Taj, which later culminated into an 11-year stint in F&B operations, including the opening team at Taj Palace." It taught her resilience with long hours, weekends, handling pressure. A move to Mumbai saw her shift briefly into golf course operations and membership sales before a maternity break led her to FabIndia where she set up the Kala Ghoda store and rose to head the western region, with Goa as a key market.
Hitting a ceiling at FabIndia, where growth meant relocating to Delhi, Singh struck out on her own, launching a retail consultancy and a home store, Freedom Tree, in Goa. The space needed a café. "No one wanted to expand into Goa in 2014. We'd already taken the lease, so I said, âLet's do it ourselves. The country was moving towards molecular gastronomy and fusion. We had teenage kids and kept asking, what food legacy are we leaving behind? Bengali cuisine, rich yet underrepresented, became the anchor, paired with French for balance in a holiday market like Goa. Food historian Pritha Sen was onboarded for Bengali cuisine and chef Gregory Bazire for French cuisine, who demanded separate kitchens, teams, and equipment."
A Mumbai outpost followed, but shut within 18 months due to the pandemic. Goa endured through catering, but the brand's tight identity became a constraint. "We couldn't stretch beyond a point and there was so much more we wanted to explore. That's where the idea for Portal took shape. Creative freedom. No boundaries, no cuisine labels. Just a space where we cook what we feel like, as long as we stay true to the ingredients and intent."
We tried a Croissant Shakshuka (R650), crisp and soaking up spiced tomato and baked eggs. We then move into a Chicken Katsu Sando (Rs 700), layered with Gochujang heat, fried egg, and pickled crunch. The Romesco Chicken Wings (Rs 650) are messy and bold. We then drift into Sea and Smoke (Rs 850), scallops kissed with miso and paired with kimchi and fries; and then an eastern take on fish and chips (Rs 950) with zucchini fries, our new favourite. The handmade Genova (Rs 750) was comfort in a bowl, tossed in pesto. The Gateway bowl (Rs 550) of grains and roasted vegetables feels grounding, as does the caramelised onion tart (Rs 450). The Cheesecake with seasonal fruit (Rs 575) and an apple cake (Rs 450) that's soft and dense are about no rules or rush, just follow the mood.
WHERE: Portal, 105, Mubarak Manzil, Bombay Samachar Marg, Kala Ghoda.
