10 May,2026 10:14 AM IST | Mumbai | Aastha Atray Banan
The Kesar Bagh Kakori; (right) The Dal Ma Qureshi and butter naan;
The Goa of 2026 is a very different Goa from the one that existed 20 years ago. Just a drive through Assagao, which was once just a very sleepy neighbourhood, is now an exploration of all kinds of restaurants and bars. And boy, is it a trip.
But this new addition is a first and will have North Indians visiting, rejoicing. Kesar Bagh is Chef Azaan Qureshi's newest project. Azaan is the third-generation torchbearer of one of India's most significant culinary legacies. He is the grandson of Padma Shri awardee Chef Imtiaz Qureshi, the mind behind Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya, widely recognised for preserving and elevating the tradition of Dum cooking in Indian gastronomy, and the son of Gulam Moinuddin Qureshi. And now, with Kesar Bagh, he brings that lineage to Goa with a modern, personal interpretation of dum-led cooking. "Awadhi food in some shape or form, good bad, ugly has managed to reach London, NYC, even in Tokyo, but Goa remained an unchartered territory. Besides being a sweet challenge to replicate these classic flavours, the Portuguese villa has been too inviting to be ignored," Qureshi tells us.
The concept draws inspiration from the historic Kaiserbagh complex of Lucknow, the grand palace of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. Kaiserbagh once served as a vibrant cultural durbar where poetry, music, art, and gastronomy flourished together. Set within a restored 200-year-old Portuguese home in Assagao, the restaurant is designed to feel like a series of unfolding experiences. The intimate rooms and a strong sense of cultural storytelling inspired by the historic Kaiserbagh of Lucknow feel luxe and rich. For the vegetarians, the highlight for us, a Delhiite who has lived in Mumbai for 20 years (and hence craved a good Dal Makhni), was the Dal Ma Qureshi. It had us swooning. The deep, smoky taste with a naan is a must-try. The Takka Paisa Kebab with stuffed paneer was indulgent and perfectly spiced, and the Dahi ke Shagoofe, Qureshi's take on Dahi ke Kebab, should start your meal.
For our non-vegetarian friend, the Kesar Bagh Kakori was a showstealer. This Awadhi classic, with melt-in-your-mouth texture and delicate spices, paired perfectly with Sheermal bread. For the main course, we tried the Nalli Nihari, which was slow-cooked to rich perfection, with tender meat falling off the bone. The Gosht Mutton Biryani made in Lucknow style was light and fragrant.
For desserts, we had the Shahi Tukda and the standalone paan shop, with its fresh, made-to-order paans, made us linger a little longer than planned. What does Qureshi recommend? "The melt-in-your-mouth kakori, a royal biryani, and the decadent Shahi Tukda."
The restaurant is housed in a 200-year-old Portuguese bungalow in Assagao