Oor, the new South Indian eatery in Fort, is a homestyle kitchen where the menu is a lovingly created gastronomic joyride from a doting mum as an ode to her daughter
Iruli (onion with oor masala) uthappam
When we meet the soft-spoken Panchali Bhatia at Oor, the newest South Indian restaurant in Fort, her eyes well up at the mention of her daughter. “I am an empty nester since she moved abroad. This restaurant serves dishes I made for her growing up. Some of the recipes are from my maternal side,” Bhatia smiles.
Oor, which means village in Tulu and Kannada, is spread across two stories and accommodates 44 seats. The wooden staircase leading to the mezzanine floor has railings decorated with Channapatna-inspired décor. Reprints of the women featured in Raja Ravi Varma’s artworks adorn the walls amid Kasuti embroidery frames from Karnataka, and wooden sculptures. We have taken along a fellow idli-lover, who got the memo and skipped breakfast for our luncheon. We request for smaller portions to be able to try more dishes on the all-vegetarian menu.
Mysore Masala and Podi-GheeThatte Idli
Podi-Ghee Thatte Idli (Rs 260) is a textured soft round mattress made from rice and urad dal batter — sans adulteration of rava nor addition of soda, to initiate a rapid ferment. The podi is spread like a shiny quilt dipped in desi ghee. Our usual three-bite rule to do justice to a tasting is off. This idli is a class in fermentation. So is the small portion of tangy Oggarne (Tempered masala Idli, Rs 199) that is tempered with curry leaves, jeera and mustard seeds.
Chennamma’s Benne Dosa and Walnut Sheera
While the Classic Rasam (Rs 110) clears our scratchy throat as the spices warm the throat with pepper and cloves, the Pineapple Rasam (Rs 150) — a personal twist by Panchali to make her kid like rasam — has a fruity tepache finish. Chennamma’s Benne Dosa (Rs 320) balances an act between a dosa and uttapam but is on the softer side. The city is suddenly bursting with benne options. Where a benne can go overboard with ghee, this one is a simpler execution that doesn’t leave a clarified overwhelm.
A view of the decor and Iced Filter Coffee
The sambar is a Mangalorean-style saaru with white pumpkin chunks, putting up a fight against every bit of advice the owners received to sweeten it with sugar or jaggery. The chutneys are light. The coconut as well as the tomato garlic, which is milder under the peppery sambar’s reign they serve. Mysore Masala (Rs 290) has a stuffing of a veggie mix of onion, capsicum and beetroot very similar to the fusion gini dosa available outside Mithibai College in Juhu. Between bites, we sip an Iced Filter Coffee (Rs 225), too flat and warm and in need of more coffee.
The OOR Bele Bhath (Rs 350) is dal khichdi hug. The moist consistency of the dal and the tenderness of rice is what we all crave to come home to. The Tomato Akki (Rs 350) has masala bhaat with tadka of curry leaves.
Oor Bele Bhath and Oggarne. Pics courtesy/Phorum Pandya; Oor
We end the meal on two sweet highs. A decadent Walnut Sheera (Rs 320) is a delight packed with walnuts, milk and jaggery. Add chocolate and you’ll get a near-perfect version of Cooper’s Fudge from Lonavala, we compliment Bhatia. OOR Shree (Rs 290) instantly reminds us of Gujarati Mohanthal made with ghee, gram flour and sugar. This chewy toffee texture is prepared from millet flour instead. If Shakespeare’s claim that beauty is skin deep runs true, our insides are surely glistening with a pure ghee finish as we stumble home for a siesta.
Oor
AT Kitab Mahal, DN Road, Fort.
Time 8 am to 8 pm
Call 9930009197
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