Of qawwali nights and flavours that travelled across centuries, this new restaurant in Thane takes you on a journey of food stories carried from kitchens to caravans
Arabic Mezze Platter
After “organic”, storytelling is perhaps the most overused word in the F&B playbook — tossed around far more often than it’s truly practised. Only a handful of places still understand what it actually means. Suma, the newest fine-dining destination in Thane from hospitality group SP Motels, founded by Niketa Sharma, has opened its doors with an experience that feels less like a meal and more like a journey. Rooted in the history of the Grand Trunk Road, one of South Asia’s oldest and longest trade routes, historically connecting Bangladesh to Afghanistan and carrying people, spices, stories, and cultures across centuries, Suma brings together two rich culinary worlds of Arabia and India in a way that feels warm, sensory, and deeply personal.
The interiors, designed by Design Alma, are Mediterranean warmth meets rustic Victorian detail, softened by Indian accents. A statement arch-framed bar anchors the space, while maroon and olive tones, textured walls, brass highlights, and layered lighting create an atmosphere that’s intimate yet expansive — perfect for a quiet dinner or a lively family table. Adding to the experience, over weekends, you can experience Qawwali and Sufi Nights, featuring folk artistes from across India. As harmoniums hum and voices rise in unison, the dining room transforms into a vibrant mehfil — turning an evening here into a celebration of food, music, and shared emotion.
The interiors blend Mediterranean warmth with rustic Victorian detail, softened throughout by thoughtful Indian accents
The menu carries the earthy comfort, inspired by the timeless route from Lucknow to Afghanistan, where caravans once carried ingredients, songs, and stories. You’ll find shawarmas alongside seekh kebabs, hummus complementing smoky aubergine, and dishes layered with za’atar, saffron, nuts, and coal-roasted marinades.
Chicken dum biryani
We started with Palak Patta Chaat, a playful, crunchy riot of flavours — tempura-fried spinach leaves drizzled with yoghurt, sweet and tangy chutneys, and a sprinkle of sev. The Bharwan Aloo had baby potatoes, chargrilled till they blister, then reveal a centre of warm paneer, nuts, and gentle sweetness. The Arabic Mezze Platter had drama, featuring a journey across the Levant on one board — Hummus Beiruti whipped light, Fattet Hummus layered and textured, Muhammara smoky and nutty, Kashke Bademjan velvety, and Labneh. Falafels add crunch, while warm homemade pita, crisp lavash, marinated olives, pickles, and olive oil turn it into a table-wide ritual of dipping and sharing. Lasooni Jheenga had prawns marinated in garlic and gentle spice, grilled till they carry that perfect tandoori char. Juicy, aromatic, and built for those who love seafood with a hint of drama. Amritsari Machchi was fresh fish coated in a spiced batter, fried till beautifully crisp yet tender inside. A classic, when well done, lands with warmth and nostalgia. A newer addition to the menu we tried that night was the Kasundi Tandoori Avocado, a contemporary standout — creamy avocado marinated in sharp, mustard-forward kasundi and finished in the tandoor. Smoky, unexpected, and entirely memorable.
Jalebi with rabri
The Murgh Hyderabadi Biryani arrived in a handi with a soft waft of saffron and whole spices. It’s comfort layered with craft. The Suma Butter Chicken, their signature dish, is bold, soulful, and intentionally homestyle. Shredded tandoori chicken simmers in a clay-pot style gravy that’s rich, spiced, and unapologetically indulgent. It feels like butter chicken reimagined through memory rather than restaurant polish. For desserts, we tried the Shahi Tukda, crisp ghee-fried bread soaked in scented rabdi, layered with saffron and nuts. It’s an indulgence the old royal kitchens would approve of. And Jalebi with Rabdi Hot, syrupy jalebis paired with thick, slow-cooked rabdi. A familiar street-side comfort elevated with finesse.
Shahi Tukda
The highlight of our trip was meeting Chef Rahul Desai, group executive chef at Suma, who described the essence of the restaurant beautifully. “Suma allowed us to connect India and Arabia through flavour, technique, and memory. The menu comes from slow-cooked traditions and coal-roasted depth, but also from a place of warmth. Every kebab, dip, and biryani carries a piece of the Grand Trunk Road and the generosity of Middle Eastern kitchens.”
Amritsari machchi
Suma’s storytelling continues at the bar through Madhushala, its signature cocktail book and tribute to Indian poetic tradition. Each drink is built around an ingredient-led philosophy — creations like Navras, Shahi Barrel, Nawaabi Raat, Jashn-e-Qahwa, Thoda Zyada, and Khatta-Meetha Safar.
Herbal Mirage
For Sharma, Suma is a love letter to the journeys that shaped our food culture. I wanted to create a space where flavours, stories, and music come together effortlessly. Every dish, every drink, every detail at Suma is designed to make guests feel something.”
With its layered food philosophy, evocative design, crafted cocktails, and cultural programming, Suma brings a refreshing, experiential dining culture to Mumbai — one that sits beautifully between history and contemporary craft. It is a place for those who enjoy not just food, but the stories and emotions that come with it. At Suma, food becomes a storyteller.
WHERE: Suma, 1st Floor,
The Thane Club, Opposite Raheja Garden Wagle Estate, Thane West.
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