A new restaurant in Prabhadevi creatively showcases north Indian flavours

Egg Crab Meat and Amrud Bhalla Golgappe

Our city is ever-changing, and it is Prabhadevi's turn to receive a swanky shot in the arm. Nestled between Dadar to its North and Worli to its South, a renewed vibe has rubbed off.

Recently, we dined at Aahii located in Sobo 25, a restaurant cluster opposite Century Bazaar. Owner Sheetal Agarwal, who has moved base from Nigeria after 25 years in hospitality, to set up her first city venture with a 85-seater north Indian cuisine destination. Aahii, she tells us, means sun, water and cloud in Sanskrit. When we stepped in we spotted chairs dressed in Ikat fabric, and a sun installation on the wall; the space wears a modern Indian ambiance with a bar outlined by a black mirror panelling.

Champaran Mutton with Pickle Sattu Paratha and Nariyal Pannacotta

The menu is crafted by chef Vikram Arora, who has previously fed Mumbai's foodies with North Indian fare at Nksha and Tamak. We begin the sojourn with Surya Sol (Rs 850) and Cask Gold (Rs 900), preferring the refreshing raw turmeric-infused gin with homely ginger honey and sweet lime over the latter bourbon drink that loses its punch under the playful notes of tamarind and jaggery.

Chef Vikram Arora and Ganesh Bisht. Pics/Ashish Raje

In-house chef Ganesh Bisht, who helms the kitchen operations, sends out Kadak Palak Roomali (Rs 475) that has a sharp snap and pairs well with cream masala cheese. Amrud Bhalla Golgappe (Rs 550) steals the attention with guava chilli pani that soaks bite-sized bhallas. Boondi brings texture and bite. On the other hand, the Flat Avocado Bhel Puri (Rs 725) misses the mark - the choora has lost its crisp, and flavours lack balance.

Surya Sol

A juicy pulled rogan josh oozes out of a toasted bun in the Resha Mutton Rogan Bun (Rs 895). From the small seafood plates, we relish the Egg Crab Meat (Rs 1450) that gives Mumbaikars a taste of their favoured coastal delicacies. The crab shreds are tossed in green garlic and butter.

Elder Aura

For halt for a second round of drinks, and find a refreshing floral comfort in Elder Aura (Rs 900). Vodka converses with gentle notes of elderflower and fresh notes of cucumber. For the mains, we pair a desi, pot-smoked Champaran Mutton (Rs 1050) with Pickle Sattu Paratha (Rs 195), which we relish as is.

Sheetal Agarwal

The Wild Mushroom Khurchan Tawa (Rs 725) roasts mixed mushrooms and onion into a rustic, north-Indian style bhaji toss. The Dum Murg Biryani (Rs 995) reigns in flavours with a Delhi-style execution. The fragrant kesari rice offered a pickled tangy finish. Satiated, the soothing texture and malai comfort in the Nariyal Pannacotta (Rs 550) topped with berries and basil seeds, ends our dinner in a cool, calming note.

The space captures an Indian ambiance through its chairs wrapped in Ikat fabric and the installation of the sun on its walls

Aahii
AT Sobo 25, 4th Floor, Bengal Chemical Bhavan, opposite Century Bazaar, Prabhadevi.
TIME Tuesday to Friday (7 pm to 12.45 am; Weekends (12 pm to 12.45 am); all week dining begins in February
CALL 9820050705