How India's coastal communities celebrate breadfruit during the monsoon season

Breadfruit is roughly the size of a small melon, with a round to oval shape, thick, rough, and textured skin, with mottled patterns in shades of green to yellow-green, turning brownish as it ripens. The surface may appear slightly spiky or bumpy, similar to jackfruit but less rugged

Earlier this week, a friend returned from Goa carrying a prized seasonal gift - breadfruit, or Neer Phanas, which she planned to marinate in simple spices and rawa-fry to enjoy with her evening chai by the window. For those who trace their roots to India's coast, this humble fruit - also known as Jeev Kadgi in Mangalorean Konkani, Jeegujje in Kannada, and Kadachakka in Kerala, Seema Panasa in Telugu - is more than just an ingredient. It's memory, connection, and comfort, wrapped in a meaty, starchy form.

Vikram Shenoy prepares Jeev Kadgi Bhutti at Shenoy's. Pics/Atul Kamble

Aparna Bhat, founder of The Traveling Thali shares, "In our home, the arrival of breadfruit season sparks quiet excitement - because it's not just about food, it's about continuity. It's about keeping alive a cultural thread in a city like Mumbai, far from the coastal roots of our ancestors." For years, her family has maintained a meaningful exchange with another Mangalorean Konkani household: "Each season, we receive a few Jeev Kadgis from them, and we share jackfruit from our garden. It's simple, unspoken, and deeply personal."

Quince breadfruit. Pic Courtesy/Masque

Recently, her family prepared Jeev Kadgi Phodi - pan-fried slices with a generous hit of hing - for her grandmother's 12th-day ritual after her passing. "I've never tasted it so good. It felt like a blessing from her, like she was guiding our hands in the kitchen one last time," Bhat reflects.

Chef Vikram Shenoy shares, "For every Gaud Saraswat Brahim (GSB) household, Jeev Kadgi is essential - especially during Gudi Padwa, when it's traditionally served as Phodi, Bhaji, or Kaap, deep-fried or shallow-fried. It's not just food; it's a celebration on a plate. It lends a subtle fruity note that anchors the dish. We've gone beyond traditional uses - brining, pickling and experimenting - to keep it exciting," says Shenoy. These dishes are featured at Shenoy's in Worli, his family restaurant, where Special Bhojanam celebrations - a GSB meal hosted every first Sunday of the month - will include Jeev Kadgi Phodi this time.

Neer Phanas Phodi and Breadfruit Curry

Shenoy believes that this ingredient is fading from everyday meals, making its seasonal use more critical than ever. "Discovered by the Europeans in 1769, breadfruit grows across Southeast Asia, Mexico, and Africa, and is listed among the world's 25 superfoods. It's low on the glycemic index, supports blood sugar control, and helps manage hypertension. The younger generation needs to be introduced early - they'll discover new ways to use it that we never imagined."

Aparna Bhat

Taste of texture

Compared to jackfruit, Neer Phanas is milder, starchier, and creamier when cooked - earning it the nickname, ‘French fries of Indian fruits.' Its flavour is subtle, almost bland, but cooking transforms it into something richly creamy, making bold spices essential. It doesn't taste like jackfruit - it's more like a freshly baked bread. Shenoy prefers to cut into thick slices for dishes like Phodi or Kaap thick to retain their meaty bite. "Firm yet soft, crisp when fried, it absorbs flavours beautifully - especially in preparations like Bhutti," says chef Shenoy. The key is picking a mature yet firm fruit with a thick, sturdy stem; the skin ranges from green to yellow-green but turns brown as it over ripens.

Vikram Shenoy

For Bhat, the most important lesson is to respect the texture. "Overcook it, and it turns to mush. You want to retain that creamy, meaty bite. Flavour-wise, it's a blank canvas - great quality hing gives our Phodi its backbone. I also love using it in Alle Peeyao Masolu, a gingery onion gravy that gives the breadfruit warmth and soul."

Since it's available only from June to September, each bite feels special. "Fresh phodis, hot off the tawa during monsoon? No one can stop at one, and you don't want to, because you'll have to wait a year for that first bite again." Bhat enjoys exploring modern takes. "The Alle Peeyao Masolu makes a fantastic taco filling. I've also created a smoky pulled pork-style taco using Jeev Kadgi with bold, punchy spices."

A version is also available at Chaitanya's in Dadar where the preparation is crispy on the outside, marinated in their ‘assal Malvani masale' and rawa-fried to let the mild sweetness of Neer Phanas give the kaap (slices), a completely distinct yet delectable taste.

Contemporary chefs are taking note, too. at Farmlore, Bengaluru, chef Johnson Ebenezer drew inspiration from Michelin-starred Dewakan to create a breadfruit taco, using mashed fruit as the base; At Masque, some time ago, a dish titled Quince | Breadfruit | Sheermal has reimagined breadfruit as a kebab crusted with moong dal, paired with hari chutney, morel mushrooms, and roasted quince, served alongside their take on saffron-scented sheermal flatbread. Similarly, at O Pedro, Breadfruit Neureos featured on the menu in 2023. Neureos are traditionally flaky pastries served during festive seasons in Goa, typically filled with a sweet mix of jaggery, nuts, and coconut. O Pedro gave this classic dish a savoury twist using the versatile breadfruit, accompanied by smoky eggplant ketchup and pickled pumpkin salsa.

Prepping breadfruit

>> Wash thoroughly under running water to remove dirt particles
>> Slice off the top and bottom to create a stable cutting base
>> Sticky sap alert - Breadfruit releases a milky sap when cut. Lightly coat your hands and knife with oil to prevent sticking
>> Peel the skin with a sharp knife or vegetable peeler
>> Halve the fruit lengthwise, and remove the tough core
>> Cut into wedges, slices, or cubes as desired.
>> Soak in cold water to prevent browning before cooking

Jeev Kadgi Bhutti

INGREDIENTS
>> 500 gm Breadfruit
>> 1 Onion (big sized)
>> 1 tbsp Coconut oil
>> Salt to taste

For Masala:
>> 50 gms grated coconut
>> 5 to 6 roasted Pandi dry red chillies
>> Small lemon sized tamarind
>> 1 tsp Coriander seeds
>> Salt to taste
>> 1/2 cup water

For Tempering:
>> 1/2 tsp Mustard seeds
>> 4 to 5 Curry leaves
>> 1/4 tsp Hing

METHOD
Boil breadfruit in salted water until just tender, then strain and set aside. Grind all masala ingredients into a smooth paste. In a kadai, heat oil, add mustard seeds; once they crackle, add curry leaves and a pinch of hing powder, then take off the flame briefly. Return to medium heat, add chopped onions, and sauté until soft and translucent. Stir in the boiled breadfruit and ground masala. Season with salt and cook on medium-low heat for 10 to 12 minutes, allowing the flavours to meld. Finish with a tempering of red chilli powder for extra heat or colour. Serve hot.

Recipe courtesy: Vikram Shenoy