Indulge in a South Indian feast at this month-long food pop-up in Mumbai

(From left) Seeraga samba biryani made in a traditional handi. Pics Courtesy/Vidhya Shankar

There is something about a passionate foodie that defies convention. They can break rules, travel distances for the right consistency of a kebab. The author George Bernard Shaw was not wrong when he said ‘There is no sincerer love than a love for food.' Yet, Dr Vidhya Shankar was treading a thin line when she chose to question the chefs at the Tanjore Tiffin Room (TTR) about the absence of seeraga samba rice in her biryani.

"I am not a person who often speaks their mind openly. But having grown up in Trichy, it was close to my heart," the dental surgeon reveals. The traditional South Indian rice is particularly known for its fluffy form that gives texture to a biryani, in addition to its aroma.

Kavuni rice halwa; (right) Vazhapoo vadai

Teaching the kitchen

"As a restaurant, we have always been open to receive recipes and suggestions from people. Some of the items on our menu come from friends and patrons. It shows a passion, and also reveals a traditional knowledge that is otherwise lost," shares Prashant Pallath, partner, TTR. They have previously held pop-ups with chefs and home chefs as part of the experience.

Pichipotta chicken; (right) Mutton chukka

"I was not aware of the seriousness with which they were taking it. This is not something I do professionally," admits Shankar. Having questioned the biryani, the dentist only thought it appropriate to bring her own creation to the meeting. "We thought it was good, and as we talked more, we realised there was a chance to do something with it," adds Pallath. He invited Shankar to work with the chefs over a course of four weeks, discussing recipes, sharing details and creating the menu for the Trichay Food Fest.

Dalcha mutton with ghee rice; (right) Chicken biryani with salna

Southern memories

Born and brought up in Ponmalai in Tiruchirapalli (shortened as Trichy), Shankar comes from a passionate food family, and moved to Mumbai after her marriage. The menu is a showcase of the personal touches from her kitchen and her memories. It includes sides like the dalcha (a dal stew), or the paruppu urundai kolambu (stew with fried dal cutlets) and vazhapoo vadai (banana flower vada) that come straight from the little mess kitchens. "For instance, if you have a parotta, you have to serve salna [a gravy with dal, chicken or mutton]. If you have ever eaten at a roadside parotta kadai, you know what that emotion is," Shankar elaborates.

A roadside stall selling eatables in Madurai. Representation pic/Istock; Pics courtesy/Tanjore Tiffin Room

Some dishes will amuse you, if you could read Tamil. Seeing the picchipotta chicken (shredded chicken) brought a grin to our face. "I also make another dish at home when I don't have time for a full dinner. I call it avasara chicken [chicken in a hurry]," laughs Shankar.

Dr Vidhya Shankar (left) and Prashant Pallath during a meeting

Personal touch

The personal signature is what Pallath was looking for. "Every family creates its own distinct recipes. We have always invited people to share them, and if they are really good, we retain them on the menu," he adds. As for the biryani, the restaurateur admits it comes down to logistics. "Through my travels in Tamil Nadu, I have had only biryani made in seeraga samba rice. It is difficult to acquire in Mumbai, and we are getting it brought in from Chennai for the pop-up," he reveals.
This might not be the last of such a venture. "We are always on the lookout for something to improve. It is important to find these recipes and record them for posterity," Pallath concludes.

TILL June 30; 12 pm to 11.45 pm
AT The Tanjore Tiffin Room, NESCO, Goregaon East.
CALL 9619011696