Cocktail hour in SoBo: A Nariman Point favourite shutters after 13 years to make way for a classy, unrushed cocktail bar

Lenon

What time are we meeting tonight?" The expected answer if you're in Mumbai, where time is money, would typically end with a slot, followed by "ish."

After 13 years of running The Sassy Spoon in Nariman Point, owner Rachel Goenka, founder-CEO, TCSC Hospitality, which also owns The Sassy Spoon (in Powai and Pune), House of Mandarin, Baraza and Sassy Teaspoon, wanted to usher change. New in its space is the smartly named 120-seater cocktail bar, 8ish. "The idea is to offer an unhurried space that fits naturally into people's everyday rhythm," says Goenka.

Fried Chicken Fermented in Hot Sauce (right) Buff and Bone Marrow Slider. Pics/Atul Kamble

Designed by Shweta Kaushik of SKID, the aged wood and amber-hued lighting create an in-between hour - when time stands still, and ushers in an ambience to loosen up. Lenticular artwork shape-shifts between Salvador Dalí and John Lennon, amping up the quirk factor, including messages on the bar chairs like ‘Throne of bad decisions', ‘Chair of timeless banter' and ‘Seat of accidental confessions'. The bar backdrop is lined with shelves that hold mixologist and creative director Jishnu AJ's fermentations and mixtures.

"The Sassy Spoon has history, emotion, and loyalty attached to it. This paves the way for an exciting new chapter. South Mumbai has great dining options, but few bars. People are looking for experience-first spaces that aren't formal or intimidating, but still represent thoughtful design," reasons Goenka.

Sambuca Togarashi Scallops and Pull-Apart Cheese Bread

The menu traverses European, Indian, and Mediterranean influences in comfortable small plates and bar bites. There's Pull-Apart Cheese Bread (Rs 420) with smoked scamorza and a sweet tomato chilli jam relish; succulent Buff and Bone Marrow Sliders (Rs 670) with bacon jam and cured egg yolk are mid-sized and hearty. Stand outs include Sambuca Togarashi Scallops (Rs 790) that have a sweet and smoky finish and Fried Chicken Fermented in Hot Sauce (Rs 420) that is flavourful without being too fiery. Polenta Fries with a crispy coating and a mushy cornmeal are served with a spiced tomato onion relish. A slather of nutty muhammara and a creamy White Bean Hummus (Rs 420) on sourdough crackers, offer filling options for sharing portions.

Jishnu AJ and Rachel Goenka

Jishnu's stints include Ekaa, KOKO and Four Seasons Mumbai. He has divided 30 cocktails into three moods, including comforting, experimental, and rituals. "Our classics are improved with this method; we pre-batch some elements for 24 hours, diluting them with Perrier water to reach the right temperature. Our white negronis and martinis undergo a 24-hour freezing technique, making it possible to serve a cocktail within minutes," the creative director reveals.

For his experimental cocktails, ingredients have been sourced from across the globe. "My close bartender friends from everywhere are all pitching in. I've got wormwood from Singapore; Naga peppers from Nagaland. My mixology is ingredient-centric. Wherever I travel to, I return with ingredients."

8ish
AT Ground Floor, Express Towers, Plot A, Ramnath Goenka Marg, next to HDFC Bank, Nariman Point.
Time 5.30 pm to 1.30 am
Call 9457118888

The Guide's Top Tipples

Liquid Sand: Sweet spice of mugwort greets the palate, balancing the strong notes of gin and smoked agave closed with citrus notes of Lillet Blanc, a fortified wine liqueur.
COST Rs 990

Lenon: A fruity muskmelon and basil mezcal cocktail (see pic on pg 17) with a shiso leaf infusion. "We use pectinex - a commercial enzyme blend used in the food industry to clarify juices and concentrates by breaking down pectin from fruits and vegetables during clarification. The drink is then carbonated," Jishu explains.
COST Rs 990

Dangerously

Unhinged: A twist on the Boulevardier classic, the drink has whiskey with pandan leaf infusion. Hints of controlled sweetness emerge from banana saccharum. "The cocktail is clarified in a mixture of toasted sesame and milk. We strain this mixture through a coffee filter," says Jishnu.
COST Rs 990

Tongba: We loved this millet-based hot fermented drink from the North East. It is upgraded with white rum and sweet-sour elements. The drink is topped with hot water and served warm - perfect for winter nights.
COST Rs 1500

Nearly Misbehaved:
It's served in gimlet style, with a sweet-sour mixture of supasawa. The drink has hints of mint, apple juice and herby ching fing, a north eastern herb, which makes-shifts for the bitters.
COST Rs 890