There's a new Bengaluru-led dining space in Mumbai, and here's all you need to know about it

Ghee Podi Idli

It is mid-morning when we walk into the spacious confines of a new The Bengaluru Café on Juhu's Gulmohar Road. Founders Vikas Subramani and Varun Timmegowda are busy working out the logistics before the big opening day. "Have some coffee," is an immediate follow-up from Subramani, reflecting a Bengaluru response that traces back to this writer's childhood summers spent in The Garden City. There is a reason Marcel Proust called food as the key to involuntary memory.

Juhu expansion

In 2017, the two US-returned IT professionals opened their first outlet in Jayanagar in Bengaluru. "I wanted to apply the Quick Service Restaurant (QSR) systems over there, with consistent standard operating procedures (SOPs) to South Indian food," Subramani shares.

Thecha Masala Dose

Over 2500 sq ft, the space is quartered into a 60-seater seating area that runs around the Darshini-styled standing space. Four counters, manned by dedicated station masters, take on the task of quick service.

Considering the rise in Bengaluru-led dining spaces, we wonder if the neighbourhood might not be competitive. "We are not here to compete, just share flavours from home," shrugs Subramani.

Sakkarai Pongal

Simple but filling

The service is efficient as our Ghee Podi Idlis (Rs 150) arrive on the table within five minutes of the order being placed on the self-help kiosks. The Idlis live up to our expectation, with lightly spiced Podi. This writer is comforted to find that the sambar's consistency is thick, and lacks any hint of sweetness.

We follow this up with the Thecha Masala Dose (Rs 220), a new offering for the Mumbai crowd. The dosa texture balances the outer crispiness with a softer interior. This allows the heat from the thecha to build slowly on the palate, without overpowering the coconut or tomato chutney.

Filter coffee

The menu is familiar, but diverse. With eight varieties of dose, alongside thindis (snacks) like Khara Bhaat, Bisibele Bhaat, and Pulav, the menu serves the objective of quick, but wholesome food. The founders inform us that more popular variants from Bengaluru like Kari Dose and Ragi Dose will be introduced to the menu later.

We follow the fare with a rich Filter Coffee (Rs 70). Of course, our sweet tooth does not allow us to leave before trying the Sakkarai Pongal (Sweet Pongal) (R180). A slight tinge of camphor trickles through the gooey sweetness - an inspiration from the kitchens of Tirupati, Subramani admits.

Founders Varun Timmegowda and Vikas Subramani

Home away from home

"From prepping ingredients, to readying dishes, the idea is to deliver it to the table within minutes; no matter what time you walk in," Subramani adds. We want it to be a home away from home, shares Timmegowda. A thought to hold on to in a city of migrants like Mumbai.

(From left) The seating area at The Bengaluru Café; the self-help kiosks at the restaurant; visitors experience the Darshini-styled standing space. Pics/Sayyed Sameer Abedi

The Bengaluru Café
TIME 11 am to 12 am
AT A2, Gazal Villa, Gulmohar Road, Juhu, Andheri West.

South Indian treats

. Ghee Roast Masala Dosa
AT The Rameshwaram Café, Cambata Building, Maharshi Karve Road, Churchgate.
CALL 8655640757

. Benne Masala Dosa
AT Benne- The Heritage Bangalore Dosa, Shree Pant Bhavan, Charni Road East.
CALL 9920877677

. Mangaluru Buns
AT Namah, Four Bungalows, Andheri West.
CALL 8976616336

. Ghee Podi Idli
AT Café Madras, near Maheshwari Udyan, Matunga East.
CALL 0224014419

. Ragi Dosa
AT Kaavali, Chandra Apartment, Nahur Road, Mulund West.
CALL 9819855608