Breaking bread: Tost brings global sandwich culture to Mumbai’s suburbs

Aloo Tuk

At Tost, you break bread, literally. A small piece of bread arrives with a sprinkle of salt on top. The idea is to break bread with someone, as that is usually a sign of celebration. Soon enough, you are digging into a sandwich.

Mumbai loves a good sandwich. But it's rare to find a good one beyond South Mumbai and Bandra. That frustration sits at the heart of the new shop in Andheri started by three partners - Chef Dinesh B (who also goes by Chef Denis), Chintan Bhiwandkar, and Alka Khilnani - who met through overlapping worlds. "All three of us are from different backgrounds," explains Bhiwandkar. "Kitchen, finance and marketing. Everyone handles their own thing."

Sichuan Fried Shroom Sandwich

Their common love for bread is what brought them together. But why start a sandwich spot? "The idea was simple," says Dinesh. "I love sandwiches." And, it came from travel as much as hunger. Between them, the partners had eaten across North America and Europe. Burgers, grilled cheese, deli sandwiches - the kind of casual food cities like New York and Chicago treat almost as civic pride.

At home in Mumbai, the chef found himself underwhelmed. "I used to struggle with sandwiches or burgers," he admits. Part of that struggle was about meat. "Most burgers here use lean meat. But the flavour comes from the fat," says Dinesh. So, the team started building a menu around the sandwiches they wished existed in the city. While Mumbai already knew fried chicken or burgers, Tost wanted to bring forth sandwiches uncommon to the city.

Pics courtesy/Tost

The space reflects that thinking. You'll notice classic American diner shades: Reds, yellows, and whites. But the place doesn't feel like a retro theme park. Maybe, it's the music, the crowd spilling in from the neighbourhood. Or it's simply that this diner aesthetic is filtered through a contemporary lens.

For a sandwich shop, the food feels refreshingly elevated. The pricing, however, keeps things grounded. The menu glides between continents. There's a Sichuan Fried Chicken Burger, where crisp chicken is dunked in peppery Sichuan oil. "You bite into the chicken, and you realise that the flavour is not only from the batter," says Bhiwandkar. Breakfast leans global too. Mumbai's Keema Pav appears as a Bunny Chow; there are Chilaquiles; and an Anti-Avo Tosty, which has coriander hummus, pickled beets and feta on a toasted bagel. There are the personal touches. The Aloo Tuk is the chef's nod to his Sindhi upbringing. Traditionally, it's double-fried and smashed. Here, it arrives as stacked potato bites instead. And, there are OG Bombay references too. "We wanted to give something back, so some dishes are an ode to the city," the chef says.

Chintan Bhiwandkar, Alka Khilnani and Chef Dinesh B

Drinks feel like a nod to the founders' childhoods. You will be served Coca Cola in the original glass bottles, Coke floats, iced teas, and spicy lemonades. There is coffee for those who want something less playful. While desserts are simple and light. Think ice cream tucked into buns, and milk and cookies.

At Tost, 13, Sterling Apartment, Sundervan Complex Road, Andheri West.
TIME Tuesday to Thursday, 3 pm to 10.30 pm; Friday to Sunday, 10 am to 12.30 pm; Mondays closed
CALL 9987823200
LOG ON TO @tost.bombay

The Guide's top picks

Just Another Smash
The name undersells it because it's rare to find a classic smash. While everyone is busy getting creative with sauces and fillings, Chef Dinesh sticks to this burger's simplicity. Two smash patties, cheese, chopped onions, and pickles. "This is a no-drama burger," the chef says.
Cost Rs 525

Chicken Wings
These wings avoid the usual sauce overload. Instead, the seasoning runs through the meat. There's an Asian-inspired BBQ sauce served alongside instead of the wings getting tossed into it. So, you can dip, slather, and lick as much as you please.
Cost Rs 345

Eggplant Marinara with Zhug
This focaccia sandwich piles crispy eggplant with mozzarella, zucchini,
roasted peppers and sundried tomato pesto; zhug adds heat.
Cost Rs 425

Misal Birria
If Mumbai was a sandwich, it would probably be this. The matki and spiced aloo are sandwiched in toasted bread, while the hot tari arrives separately like when you order a birria taco. Scoop, pour, sprinkle farsan and build your own bite.
Cost Rs 225

I Scream PB&J
Dessert here feels playful rather than fancy. Vanilla ice cream sits inside a mini bun with peanut butter and jam. It's a childhood snack that wandered into a diner.
Cost Rs 225