16 November,2025 05:57 PM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
There is always a queue outside Benne - Heritage Bangalore Dosa, on 16th Road, Bandra
A culinary shift is brewing in the burbs. Once known for its sushi bars and small-plate cafés, Bandra seems to be turning into the new Matunga with better lighting and design-led South Indian food menus. Alongside older favourites like Madras Diaries, Tanjore Tiffin Room, Kari Apla and the âdon't-know-why-but-there's-always-a-queue-outside-Benne', newer eateries like Nanna House, Uppu and the soon-to-open Ammakai, signal of this shift - one that blends heritage with hype, and tradition with trend.
Many credit Benne with sparking Mumbai's - and especially Bandra's - dosa revival, a title its founders accept with humility. "You're being very generous," smile Founders Akhil Iyer and Shriya Narayan., adding, "But yes, it's wonderful to see people giving this food the love it deserves. Watching new South Indian restaurants open in Bandra feels more like validation than a form of competition. It means the cuisine has found its moment - and that's something to celebrate."
Aaliya Ahuja, founder, Uppu, a 36-seater pure-vegetarian South Indian kitchen tucked into Reclamation's by-lanes, believes the renewed interest in South Indian food stems from a combination of factors. "While it's always been a timeless favourite - comforting, familiar, and versatile, what's changed is how it's being presented: elevated design, thoughtful branding, and menus that highlight regional depth. Social media has amplified this, giving traditional dishes fresh visibility. Diners today also want food that feels wholesome, value-driven, and clean - and South Indian cuisine fits that perfectly."
For Mir Aga Syed, founder of Nanna House, a restaurant that celebrates the distinct comfort of Andhra breakfasts on 16th Road, the current wave runs deeper than just design and nostalgia. "People are connecting more with South Indian culture - its cinema, music, and aesthetics. The success and acceptance of South Indian films have sparked a renewed interest in the cuisine. There's a genuine interest now in exploring authentic flavours and regional stories."
Some time ago, we heard the news that Bastian Bandra was closing its doors to make way for Ammakai, a concept celebrating the coastal richness of Mangalorean cuisine. "South Indian food has always been a comfort classic for Mumbai - from the legendary Madras Café to Sukh Sagar and Shiv Sagar, it's part of the city's DNA," says founder and CEO, Ranjit Bindra, adding, "What we're seeing now isn't a trend but an evolution. Diners today crave authenticity, depth, and a modern dining experience that still feels rooted in culture. Over the years, we've received immense love from Bandra, and this is our way of giving back before the building goes into redevelopment. This year felt like the perfect time to create something meaningful here and give Bandra a first taste of Ammakai."
Ahuja's Uppu was born out of nostalgia, inspired by her family's Sunday mornings in Matunga, a ritual she wanted to recreate in Bandra with the same simplicity and warmth, but with a modern, neighbourhood-friendly sensibility. "The focus is on honest flavours and home-style cooking, served in a relaxed, contemporary space. You'll find dishes like vattal kuzhambu, puliogare, and other traditional rice-and-curry preparations that rarely get the spotlight elsewhere. We aim to make guests feel like they're being fed - not just served - without unnecessary frills," says Ahuja, adding, "Guests have responded with joy to this authenticity. "There's something quietly satisfying about rediscovering familiar flavours done right. We've stayed away from fusion or overly stylised interpretations - our food doesn't need gimmicks. We once tried an iced filter coffee but quickly realised some things are meant to be enjoyed hot."
Unlike most South Indian restaurants in Mumbai that focus on Udupi or Tamil fare, Nanna House is rooted in authentic Andhra flavours. "We're proud to serve dishes like Millet Cone Idli, Babai Idli, and Pesarattu - each showcasing the rich culinary heritage of Andhra Pradesh. We aim to bring its warmth and comfort to Mumbai in a way that feels genuine yet contemporary. Diners today value both authenticity and aesthetics, so we've introduced lighter, wholesome options alongside playful innovations such as Filter Kaapi Soft Serve, which blends nostalgia with a modern twist. We stay true to our flavours while embracing presentation that speaks to today's audience."
At Ammakai, the spotlight is on the flavours that define the coast - coconut, tamarind, and spice - presented with a contemporary touch. "It's food with heart, reimagined for today's generation. Social media has amplified this story - the colours, textures, and heritage of South Indian food translate beautifully on the plate. Post-pandemic, people are seeking food that's both wholesome and indulgent, and that's exactly where South Indian cuisine shines. Ammakai isn't about reinventing Mangalorean food, but showcasing its richness with authenticity and care - from traditional techniques to premium sourcing and thoughtful presentation. The space reflects that spirit too: warm, coastal, and sophisticated."
Bindra believes Bandra's diners are among the most discerning in the country. "They've travelled widely, understand flavour, and appreciate both authenticity and artistry. They may walk in for an Instagram-worthy plate, but they stay for the story and emotion behind it. At Ammakai, every dish carries the warmth of home cooking, the depth of spice, and the comfort of coconut - all plated with modern elegance. For me, the sweet spot is when a dish feels rooted in memory but delivered with refinement. We're not chasing trends; we're building something enduring," he adds.
As for staying ahead in a space that's now both comforting and trendy, Benne's focus remains inward. "We're not chasing trends - we're focused on getting a little better every day, learning from our mistakes, and staying true to what we set out to do. Quality food and a great guest experience are our priorities. We love what we do, and we're grateful for the journey - we never imagined it would grow into this."
Syed says, "People are genuinely valuing authentic regional food now, and this trend is here to stay. My focus is on preserving the flavours, maintaining quality, and adding seasonal twists to ensure it always feels fresh yet comforting and familiar. We're committed to staying true to our roots while innovating and evolving, ensuring that Nanna House remains a beloved destination for years to come."
The brand, says Bindra, is built with longevity in mind. "Ammakai celebrates Mangalorean cuisine in a way that's deeply authentic yet relevant to today - rooted in provenance, technique, and heart. With two more outlets on the way, the vision is to create a legacy brand that evolves thoughtfully, but always stays true to its coastal soul."
For Ahuja, the shift is here to stay. "As people grow more conscious of what they eat, they're drawn to food that's rooted, balanced, and soulful. South Indian cuisine offers all that and more - with so much still waiting to be explored beyond the usual staples. For us, staying relevant means staying consistent - in flavour, quality, and warmth of service. Trends will come and go, but comfort food never goes out of style."
UPPU: Mysore Masala Dosa, Podi Idlis, Paneer Ghee Roast, and Tomato Rice
Ammakai: Mutton Khara Boti, Signature Coastal Stew, family-style Ammakai Dosa
Nanna's House: Babai Idli, Pesarattu, Millet Cone Idli, Karam Podi Masala Dosa, and Filter Kaapi Soft Serve
