Raw appeal: A new dining space in Ballard Estate is serving regional Indian flavours

Itrsquos fitting that Native Bombay celebrates all things Indian After all IFBE the restored 150yearold ice factory which houses the restobar traces its history to 1880 when it froze the monopoly of a European icemaker and offered the city affordable ice Now led by Amardeep Tony Singh and Abhayraj Singh Kohli mdash of Pritam Da Dhaba legacy mdash the eatery is geared to take diners on a crosscountry trail of desi flavoursKaapi negroni and Star of BombayThe entrance opens on the Cochin Streetside of the ice factory Spread across two floors the 100seater restaurant retains reminders of its past in its brickexposed walls crisscross wooden beams an old motor and giant windows that tower over the Mangaloretiled roof The mood lighting lends the space a rustic romantic aura though it can feel cavernous ldquoWhen I saw the place I was struck by its grand scale and high ceilings for which I have a soft spotrdquo Singh admits With chef Bhairav Singh at the helm the eatery he hopes will champion local ingredientsParsi papad and Naga chilli porkOur journey kicks off at the intimate groundfloor bar where head mixologist Denzil Franklin stirs up a host of negronis mdash from the OG barrelaged to pandan and curry leafinfused avatars We settle for a rush of caffeine with kaapi negroni Rs 750 imbued with freshly concocted filter coffee In refreshing contrast the passion sbagliato Rs 1050 offers a bubbly bittersweet kick The bar which is a chilledout spot to unwind after work also serves small plates like rogan josh tacos and matar khasta rolls that are easier on the pocket The Bengali in us calls for kasundi fish tikka Rs 390 which lacks the pungent hit of mustard we were looking for Itrsquos salvaged by a tomato murabba reminiscent of the runnier tomato lsquochatnirsquo a musthave at Bengali feastsPaan paneer tikkaWe move the party to the upper floor which comprises another bar a private dining room a cosy balcony and a sprawling dining area Our meal is peppered by the chefrsquos stories of food expeditions Determined to showcase a new complimentary papad every month he offers us Parsi papads served alongside a hot thetcha It clears up the palate for the smoky and succulent NH48 chicken tikka Rs 450 a delicious ode to the highway dhaba treat Bombay bomb Rs 350 meanwhile comprises Talegaon potato shells stuffed with a sweetspicy chutney A melange of textures mdash albeit a tad dry mdash the chaat is inspired by memories of munching on chana jor garam at Juhu ChowpattyThe bar on the upper floor PicsAtul KambleOur next stop is the North East with Naga chilli pork Rs 490 tossed in dalle khursaani chilli and bhut jolokia paste Fiery is an understatement for this crispy addictive treat which almost has us in tears We reach for big glugs of the ginbased star of Bombay Rs 850 that instantly transports us to summer holidays spent sucking on star fruit slices laced with chaat masala Still reeling from the heat of the chillies we enjoy the balanced sweetness of the soft paan paneer tikka Rs 410 filled with Banarasi betel leaf pureacutee fennel chutney and gulkand from KannaujChef Bhairav Singh and Amardeep Tony SinghAmong the mains what stays with us is the warm and coconutey meen moilee Rs 790 from Kerala which is quite slurpworthy The pretty petite flambeacuteed rasmalai tres leches R375 although light and airy feels a bit too sweet for our palate But the dessert that plays on our childhood nostalgia is a mildly spiced matka kulfi with peru Rs 210 We wash it all down with a whiskeyspiked and pricey version of kadha Rs 850 that mdash as Indian mothers like to believe mdash had us sleep like a baby on touching homegroundNative BombayAt 1012 Cochin Street Ballard EstateOpens Today 7 pm to 12 am 5 pm to 130 am barCall 9619066000