Marol gets a new coastal restaurant that’s ideal if you’re craving for South Indian seaside delicacies
Benne masala dosa
On a mid-week afternoon, we dropped by a newly-opened coastal restaurant at the Times Square Building in Marol. At first glance, its name might lead you to expect a Kerala-centric menu inspired by the serene seaside town of Bekal in Kasaragod. Instead, this restaurant offers a more expansive culinary journey, featuring South Indian coastal specialities from Mangalore, Kerala, Karnataka, and Goa — served in a sensitively designed contemporary space. Architect Umesh Desai’s sharp sense blends with traditional architecture and offers an inviting ambience, soft lighting, geometric patterns, brass accents, and wooden carvings, giving the space a warm, elegant aesthetic.
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Ghee roast with neer dosa
The restaurant had a quiet, unhurried atmosphere and was occupied by mostly office goers from the vicinity on the day we dropped by. Helmed by chef Lalit Chunara, the menu, we are told, is authentic. We started with goli baje (Rs 125) and asked for kadam idli, which we were informed has been discontinued. Considering it is a new place, it was surprising why lesser-known idli like kadam (cucumber idli, steamed in turmeric leaves) should be discontinued so soon — Mumbai needs to explore beyond the staple idli-dosa-vada trifecta to appreciate the expansive South Indian cuisine. The goli baje was crispy on the outside and warm and chewy inside — it had a bite to it. We would have preferred the usual coconut-coriander chutney, but they served it with a standard duo of tomato-based and coconut. Instead of kadam, we opted for soft, pillowy podi thatte idli (Rs 165) with the right amount of melted ghee and spicy, savoury ground chutney.
Kori roti. Pics/NASRIN MODAK SIDDIQI
The piping-hot benne masala dosa (Rs 185), prepared with dollops of butter, was quickly compared to a popular Bandra eatery, where the craze for this dosa variant has caught on like wildfire. This Marol version comes a close second after the Bandra eatery’s version. Next, we opted for chicken ghee roast (Rs 445). The spicy, tangy, and flavourful dish of chicken and spices cooked in ghee would have been great with appams, but we were suggested neer dosa, and it melted in our mouth. Next up, kori roti (Rs 545), a spicy staple of the Tulu Udupi-Mangalorean cuisine, is a classic pairing of the kori gassi (chicken curry) with dosa crisps.
PIC COURTESY/INSTAGRAM
Despite barely having any room for dessert, we tucked into the gadbad ice cream (Rs 395). This classic desi dessert brought back memories from our college days when this cost Rs 20 at the neighbourhood ice cream parlour that was savoured till the very end among friends. With its origins in Mangalore (today’s Mangaluru), this sundae is arranged in a tall glass with three different flavours of ice cream and jello, fresh fruits, and chopped nuts layered in between to give it some texture. We feel it is one of the most underrated ice cream iterations. At this restaurant, it was pricey, too. We washed down all of it with filter coffee (R95) — which was as good as you can sip on at any South Indian eatery.
Podi thatte idli
Bekal House is ideal for a working lunch if you’re in the area, or for an indulgent breakfast date on weekends. However, we wonder what the tandoor and Asian dishes were doing on the menu, given that their main attractions didn’t miss the mark.
Gadbad
Bekal House
At Times Square Building, Andheri-Kurla Road, Marol, Andheri East.
Time 9 am to 4 pm; 7 pm to 12 am
Call 9619525145
****Exceptional, ***Excellent, **very Good, *Good, Average. Bekal House didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
