Popular classic fine-dine, Gaylord gets a glow up as it steps into its 70th year
Frames of actors from Hindi cinema adorn the ground floor space
Confession time: Gaylord at Churchgate was the first fine-dine restaurant this writer visited without parental supervision. She was 18, and has a recollection of spilling a glass of water, and chuckling with a friend over transcending from pizza and Udupi café fare. Both friends shared a vegetable au gratin. PL Lamba started Gaylord with his partner Iqbal Ghai in 1956. Later, Sunil Lamba took the legacy ahead. His sons Dhruv and Divij run the business today.
A view of the bar on the mezzanine floor. Pics/Sayyed Sameer Abedi
Since that first visit, the décor had always scooped us into a time capsule: The European-style garden al fresco and colonial-themed chandelier-lit interiors, frames of yesteryear Bollywood stars gracing its walls; all in all, a sepia-tinted nostalgic experience. To prepare for its 70th year, Gaylord has initiated a sprucing-up of its ambiance and menu. The indoor seating is elevated with black-and-golden panels, and maroon seating sections set against a glistening marble backdrop that lends it a purist touch. Interspersing mirror work, especially at the bar, reflects playful charm.
Guava Picante
Over lunch, Dhruv shares the idea behind the change: “We wanted to inject a completely new life into Gaylord, to keep up with the modern times. Gaylord was one of the first established restaurants serving high-end continental and Anglo-Indian fare. It became a place where people wanted to come and be seen. Stars, including Shankar-Jaikishan duo, Kishore Kumar, Raj Kapoor to Dilip Kumar and Saira Banu, all had their favourite tables. It was a meeting and casting hub that also witnessed many a jazz live night,” Lamba reveals.
Mangalorean Prawn Curry
The group also owns the iconic 85-year-old Delhi eatery, Kwality, which was renovated eight years ago. While revamping Gaylord, the team wanted to retain nostalgia and legacy, and also make it inviting to the younger generation. Dhruv’s wife, Mandira, a Delhi-based gallerist who runs Blueprint 12, has invested a keen eye in the detailing. “The mezzanine floor has photographs of Connaught Place by Madan Mahata Archives to narrate the Kwality story. Most of his pictures are found in museums, including Victoria and Albert Museum, Tate Modern and MoMA. We were fortunate to source some negatives from his family. These photographs document the three-kilometre radius around Gaylord — from Jacqueline Kennedy’s visit to the now-shuttered Cottage Industries across the street, to Queen Elizabeth II’s first visit to independent India,” Mandira shares.
Gosht Kareli
The lower level celebrates Bombay with frames of Bollywood stars at the venue. The entrance by the chandelier showcases photographs from the family archives. One particular image from four decades ago, of AN Malhotra, the Chief Executive Officer of the restaurant, with the entire team, is special. “The day we mounted it, numerous staff members were able to identify their uncles and relatives who have worked here,” she adds. The space also has a collection of art pieces rendered by Mandira.
Shakarkandi Chaat
The menu had inputs from Delhi’s Kwality team along with head chef Vikram Deshmukh, who has been helming the flavours in the kitchen since the past two years. The bakery continues to bake fresh bread twice a day. New additions include Stuffed Croissants in Mushroom, Omelette and Ham variations.
Manager Noel has been with the restaurant for 38 years
We give Chicken A La Kiev, Paneer Makhanwala and Lobster Thermidor from the classic menu a break, and savour their new menu. Kathal Shammi (Rs 550) melts like a galouti, and delivers fragrant and mild spice, the Tandoori Shakarkandi Chaat (Rs 495) teleports us to Delhi’s winters. Keeping up with the times, Patata Bravas is served with a cheese and red garlic sauce. The star indulgence is a silken Mangalorean Prawn Curry (Rs 980) prepared with fresh prawns and cooked in a roasted spice masala boldly tempered with mustard and curry leaves.
Dhruv Lamba
The Kareli Gosht (Rs 950) is a Nihari preparation of mutton shanks with a balanced seasoning of ginger and rose water. We sip on Guava Picante (Rs 740) that douses the spicy tequila and jalapeno with the fruity addition. The Royal Mysore (Rs 740) is a stiff drink with smoked Bourbon and aromatic bitters. As we nurse our drink, the piano catches our eye. Here’s hoping we also see the return of Gaylord’s famous jazz nights.
Gaylord
AT Mayfair Building, Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate.
Time 9.30 am to 11.30 pm
Call 7045556060
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