From fiery Indian bites, to globally inspired craft beers, a new taproom offers comfort and curiosity in a desi food-forward menu
Thecha Prawns
Bandra Kurla Complex doesn’t lack restaurants, but there aren’t enough taprooms given that it’s a business district. So, when we heard that HyLo Taproom by Igloo had opened — a first for the Jio World Drive — we dropped by for a taste test with a beer-y happy companion. Replacing Aditi Dugar’s SeeSaw, the new 75-seater from All In Hospitality transforms the address into a space that marries the casual ease of a neighbourhood bar with a confident vibe. Seating ranges from booths to community tables, with an outdoor greenhouse-style section for open-air gatherings.
A tasting flight of 150 ml pours
From chef Mrigank Singh and Swati Harsha’s menu, we began with Aam aur Mircha (Rs 550), where juicy Ratnagiri mangoes met the smoky heat of Nagaland’s King Chilli, creating a sweet-spicy kick, though the mango flavour barely surfaced. The Imli aur Nolen Gur (Rs 550) fared better, with a tangy tamarind and rich date palm jaggery glaze that was sticky, sweet-and-sour, and satisfying. The Touchings Non-Vegetarian Platter (Rs 325) was a slight letdown, featuring tiny cheese matchsticks, chewy prawn pickle, spicy chicken sausage, and crisp rice bites that were off-target.
Pic Courtesy/@HYLO.mumbai
With our appetites lined up for drinks, Razvan Zamfirescu (or Razz) led us through a tasting flight of five 150 ml pours with chakna (R750), where we sampled the colours, aromas, and character of their craft beers and cider. The Brewer’s Blonde Ale, a HyLo signature, was crisp and refreshing with light citrus notes — perfect for easy drinking. Our favourite, the Mumbai Daze NEIPA, offered soft, juicy tropical notes of mango and passionfruit, aromatic and smooth on the palate. The Heavy Hitter Russian Imperial Stout was dark and bold; rich with roast malt, coffee, and chocolate flavours. The Ready Red Apple Cider and Cherry Sour was unimpressive, though the latter’s cherry-and-spice-infused gose was tangy, playful, and nostalgic.
Kaaley Chane ke Shaami. PICS/NIMESH DAVE
Next, we sampled Mutton Galouti (Rs 750) and Kaaley Chane ke Shaami (Rs 550) from chef Swati Harsha’s family recipe book. The silky-smooth galouti was delicately spiced, and fragrant. Still, we found ourselves leaning towards the vegetarian shaami — black chickpeas with a soft, subtly-spiced centre that tasted earthy, nutty, and homely. It could easily pass for the mutton version. Among the small plates, Baiguni (Rs 490) — crispy fried eggplant cubes with chilled garlic yoghurt, spiced almonds, and fried garlic was a tad flat, lacking the crunch and creaminess we had hoped for. The Lehsuni Prawn (Rs 750) made amends; the charred, succulent prawns tossed in golden garlic butter, garlic-y, buttery, and slightly smoky. Thecha Jumbo Prawns (Rs 1499) were tossed in a fiery Maharashtrian-style thecha made with green chillies, garlic, and peanuts. The heat hits first, followed by smoky, nutty undertones.
Swati Harsha and Razvan Zamfirescu
The bar menu borrows from local and global. With Igloo Craft Beers on tap, Chaitanya Khanapure, Igloo’s founder and brewmaster, ensures that the beers complement but never compete with the food. Razz’s Little Master (Rs 1100), a tribute to Sachin Tendulkar, blends Mezcal, Campari, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, and IPA Mumbai Daze Bold — balanced and bold.
Mid-way during our tasting, Mayank Bhatt, founder of All In Hospitality joined us to explain their ethos, “We’re not chasing trends or plating foams. This food honours its origins — thoughtful, rooted, and served, in a way that feels both familiar and exciting. It tastes like home but feels like your next favourite night out.”
Chocolate Toast
For the mains, we focused on the city’s rarer offering of Indian smash burgers. The Dum Ke Bhoole Paneer (Rs 550) featured soft, smoky paneer with a slightly charred, caramelised exterior; creamy, buttery, and comforting. The Mutton Chapali (Rs 650) — spiced minced mutton — was rich, aromatic, and satisfyingly smoky. We also tried the Ema Datshi [Tingmo, Ezay] (Rs 650), Bhutan’s national dish: a creamy, cheesy, slightly tangy chilli-and-cheese broth served with soft steamed buns, utterly comforting. We washed it down with their homemade lemonade — Yuzu and Gondhoraj Sorbet, Coffee, Fizz (Rs 200), a bright, citrus-y sorbet combining the zesty tang of yuzu and the aromatic kick of Gondhoraj lime, paired with a light coffee fizz for a sparkling finish.
The desserts were the scene-stealers. Sri Lankan’s favourite, Wattalappam (R450), a coconut milk and dark jaggery steamed pudding, was soft, caramel-y, and indulgent. The finale, Chocolate Toast (R850), showcased rich, fruity Indian-origin cacao from the Godavari Delta — bold, bittersweet, and decadently chocolate-y, it signed off our visit on a happy note.
HyLo Taproom
AT X G-30, Ground Floor, Jio World Drive, BKC.
Time 11 am to 1.30 am
Call 9653256778 (For reservations)
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