This chic bistro in Bandra lets you doodle, sip, and explore global flavours

The Mud Crab Gratin with Lamb Brain and Bengali Dijonnaise

The colourful mosaic tiles across the floor at Kasper's, a cosy 35-seater neighbourhood bistro, promises to lead you into a good time. It could teleport you to a swish Parsian banquet, an Italian osteria, a Spanish tapas bar, or a buzzing nightspot in New York. If you've been stood up, or your company is running late, it offers enough time to get into arty mode with the box of crayons at the table, where each is covered in white paper sheets to go all out. We pair this experience with a Ramos Gin Fizz (Rs 1050) that comes bearing a frothy top. The guava gin, with notes of lime and rose, unleash the artist in us.

Not before we've gawked at the abstract and playful cherubs by American artist Kacper Abolik, who spent a month in the city personally painting the frescos. Kasper's is dished out by restaurateur duo Jay Yousuf and Gauri Devidayal's Food Matters that runs The Table and Mag St Cafe and Kitchen.

Hot Fudge Profiterole Sundae. Pics/Nimesh Dave; ASHISH RAJE

The zinc metal bar top slides all the way to the semi-open kitchen led by Will Aghajanian, giving you a glimpse into all the action inside. After having worked at Mugaritz in Spain, Per Se in New York, and Run Horses in Los Angeles, Aghajanian completes two years in India this week. He admits to being Indianised. "There are so many palates, and I have learnt to cater to them," he tells us, adding, "There is a before you lived in India and after. It's kind of like living in Thailand too.

Things start to taste bland and you also start to understand what it needs to have. If you just make French food here, it will be very raw. So, it's hard to do it as it is, but I think there is a way to do it where maybe you hide a little bit of Indian secret so it doesn't lose its authenticity. You have to sneak it in in little places. It makes it more interesting." He's excited about sourcing baby cuttlefish from Sassoon Dock. "I've only ever seen it in Spain. But you can eat the bone," he shares, before heading into the kitchen for service hour.

The Sea Bream Tartare with Menuire Vinaigrette

The food lives up to the buzz. The Terrazzo Jelly (Rs 475), sets out cubes of bell pepper jelly in a slice of goat cheese and places it on a sesame crisp. Its design mimics the floor pattern. Both, the flaky olive roll with a slather of cherub moulded salty butter from the bread basket by Shannen Alexandra (head chef at Mag St. Bread Co), and the Honey Drizzled Red Vegetable Sobrasada Panino (Rs 650), make for easy non-fussy bites.

The Sea Bream Tartare with Menuire Vinaigrette (950), is our favourite sharing plate for the evening. The bite opens with a light and refreshing drizzle of lemon juice, olive oil, and caper flowers, while the bed of brown butter dressing closes it with a smooth creaminess.

Trofie Pesto Genovese

The Mud Crab Gratin with Lamb Brain and Bengali Dijonnaise (Rs 950), is a dish inspired by a hybrid of three inspirations, as the chef told us earlier - a crab cake inspired by Maryland where he grew up, the popular butter poached brain dish with chives at Le Baratin in Paris, and our desi bheja fry. We dig our spoon to the bottom of the crab shell bowl that holds the dish. The moist crab meat with a coating of kasundi sauce balances a custard of lamb brain.

Artist Kacper Abolik has painted the playful cherubs on the artwork and frescos at the restaurant

Next, we try the Last Samurai (Rs 1050), a stiff negroni that marries Miso Bourbon, Islay malt and sweet vermouth. The drinks are designed to coax you to stay on for one more than you planned. It's an adventurous soiree with Morcilla de Kerala with Queso Fondita, Potato Rosti, and Fried Hen's Egg (Rs 850), which is a blood sausage in pepper fry-style. Rich in fat, there is a dense, savoury caramel finish to every bite.

(From left) Jay Yousuf, Gauri Devidayal and chef Will Aghajanian

Having visited Genoa, the birthplace of Italy's green pesto sauce, we order Trofie Pesto Genovese (Rs 950). The coarsely-ground pesto with pine nuts, the short and slender pasta strands, and tossed green bean and sea beans, is a classic rendition. Devil is in dark chocolate, and details of the Hot Fudge Profiterole Sundae (Rs 600). The French choux pastry gets a mega sized upgrade and holds a layer of vanilla ice cream. It is drenched in a hot fudge made from dark chocolate and pushed to its limit of smoky goodness.

Kasper's
AT Classic Corner, 7/8, St Andrews Road, Bandra West.
TIME Tuesday to Sunday, 7 pm to 1 am (Dinner only)
CALL 9769764887