Jamva aavjo! Inside this new restaurant at Chowpatty in Girgaon

Samosa Kadhi

Soam has always had a special place in our hearts. The seasonal menu is reason enough to brave serpentine queues. Now, just around the corner, comes a more composed, fine-dining expression of that same spirit.

Helmed by Pinky Chandan Dixit and her husband, Aseem, Varsoo, which translates to ‘inheritance' in Gujarati, feels deeply personal. With over two decades in the kitchen, a Hotel Management degree from Sophia Polytechnic and training at Le Cordon Bleu, London, Dixit's food is shaped by years spent researching regional cookbooks alongside Tarla Dalal, and with Soam and now Aamchee. "Varsoo is about what we choose to carry forward, and how we choose to experience it now," she says. "For me, it is about years of lived experiences, shared meals, and inherited recipes, brought together into a space designed for today."

Bajra methi dhebra with kela methi nu shaak

That idea plays out clearly on the plate. A bowl of moong dal khichdi can stand alone. A ravioli-style dal dhokli reimagines form without losing comfort. A full meal of roti, shaak and kadhi comes together as a cohesive whole. What stands out is the return of dishes that have quietly slipped out of everyday menus, makai ki raab, moong ka pani, the kind of food that once defined home kitchens.

Mango sandesh ravioli

There is panki too, delicate and leaf-wrapped, offered in Jain, suva, and nachni variations. Lighter plates such as jowar pita pockets sit alongside faraal-style offerings, while drinks lean into comfort with sugarcane brightened with ginger and lemon, kokum chaas, jamun panha and saffron lemonade. Right now, mango runs through the menu, from kela methi nu shaak with aamras to mango fajeto and keri masala bhaat.

Mango ghewar tart

The space, just off Pandita Ramabai Road, carries the quiet charm of a place that has lived many lives. Designed by Saloni Kothari of Studio SKO, the 60-seater sits within a 200-year-old structure. Arched doorways, high ceilings, and original windows and wooden doors have been retained, allowing natural light to move easily through the rooms. Original floor tiles remain underfoot, upcycled furniture finds new purpose, and bespoke details add character without overwhelming the past. The restaurant unfolds across two indoor dining areas, a smaller outdoor nook, and a flexible section that can turn into a private dining space. Remnants of its earlier life, including a restoredpoker table and a vintage cupboard, remain part of the narrative.

Mini fruit chuski

There is a sense of theatre built into the meal. A live chaat counter assembles favourites in real time, while an open kitchen draws you into the making of dishes like panki. We began with the Family Pani Puri Royale (R490), where tangy kokum water cut through crisp puris, followed by a Farsaan Platter (Rs 490) that delivered familiar, well-balanced flavours. The Panki (R320) arrived soft and fragrant.

Varsoo sits within a 200-year-old structure with arched doorways, high ceilings, original flooring, windows and wooden doors retained. PICS/ATUL KAMBLE

From the signatures, the Bajra Methi Dhebra with Kela Methi nu Shaak (Rs 580) struck a balance between earthy and sweet, while the Samosa Kadhi Chaat (Rs 400) reworked a classic into something lighter and layered. The Ker Sangar with Panchmel Dal and Khoba Roti (Rs 590) made in desi ghee was our favourite. Desserts kept the tone intact. The Mango Sandesh Ravioli (Rs 450) was playful but precise, the Mini Fruit Chuski (Rs 410) clean and refreshing, and the Mango Ghewar Tart (Rs 500) a rich, satisfying finish.

Spaces like this matter in the city because they bridge a gap we often overlook, between memory and modern dining. They allow regional food to evolve without being diluted, and give diners a reason to slow down and engage with what's on the plate. "Aavjo," Dixit says as we leave. It means both goodbye and come again. Just the open invitation we needed to return and stay a little longer.

Where: Varsoo, 2nd Floor, Soni Building, 46, Pandita Ramabai Road, Opp Bhartiya Vidya Bhavan, Chowpatty
To book: 9833700300