On the island nation’s Independence Day today, a city-based Sri Lankan cuisine expert serves us a slice of its flavours with a dash of anecdotes
Prawn moilee. PICS COURTESY/HOPPUMM on Instagram
In the Nuwara Eliya district of southern Sri Lanka, you can trek your way uphill on a five-km-long trail to reach a 4000-ft-high cliff. The summit, which offers a panoramic view of what lies in the vast Indian Ocean, has been suitably named World’s End. But foodies like Mumbai-based Lakshit Shetty have found a quicker route. A bowl of piping hot sambol, crispy golden-brown hoppers, and prawn moilee in hand, and there’s possibly nothing left in the world you’ll want to seek. On its Independence Day, Shetty takes us on a trail into the heart of Sri Lankan cuisine; needless to say, it goes through the stomach.
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Sri Lankan chicken curry
“Sri Lankan flavours are different, but not unfamiliar. And that is what makes it likeable,” reveals Shetty, who brought Sri Lankan flavours to Mumbai in 2018 with his restaurant Hoppumm. While additions like rampe leaves, commonly known as pandan leaves, and lemongrass in savoury dishes add a signature touch, the influence of Tamil cuisine, marked by coconut milk in the curries lends it a comforting familiarity, he says.
Vegetable stew served in a Sri Lankan hopper
Shetty quotes a Lankan tale he carries with him from extensive recces on the streets of Sri Lanka almost a decade ago. The stir fried kottu parotta, he says, was born when a tired worker reached a street-side stall just as it was about to shut one evening. Too hungry to return empty-handed, the worker asked the chef to put together scraps and leftovers for a quick meal. The cook obliged, tossing shreds of parotta (or paratha), chopped vegetables, and leftover curry. And there you had a snack that has since crossed the Palk Strait to find a place in the street food culture of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. The anecdote reminds us of a Bambaiyya street staple that has a similar origin story — the humble and wholesome pav bhaji.
Lakshit Shetty
For those with not-so-adventurous palates, Shetty recommends starting with lighter curries (and the chef’s favourites) like the green mango chicken curry and the prawn moilee — a spicy and tangy coconut milk-based stew. Vegetarians need not fret, the vegetable moilee with meat swapped out for zucchini, bell peppers and cabbage makes for an equally flavourful and filling meal. “The best part about tucking into Sri Lankan fare is that you’ll always know what’s in it, but the way it comes together will leave you surprised,” Shetty signs off.
Egg kottu
Chef Lakshit Shetty recommends you try tossing up an egg kottu at home to join the festive spirit. The Sri Lankan street food staple is a balanced meal of carbohydrates, proteins and micronutrients that you can whip up in a jiffy.
INGREDIENTS
>>1/4 of a large cabbage bulb
>>1/2 onion
>>1/2 carrot
>>Chopped scallion (handful)
>>2 eggs
>>2 tbsp oil
>>Salt to taste
>>2 rotis or parathas
>>Leftover curry (optional)
Method
Begin by shredding your leftover parathas or rotis into smaller pieces. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok or kadhai. Once the oil is hot, add thinly sliced onions and stir fry until golden. Add the chopped cabbage and carrots and toss them in the oil until they soften. Toss the roti and any leftover curry in the mix next. Crack open the eggs in a separate bowl and add salt to taste. Pour the egg mix in and scramble them over heat with the vegetable mix. Garnish with a handful of chopped scallion or coriander and serve hot.
Sri Lankan crab curry
Ingredients
>>750 g crab (serves 3-4)
>>1/2 cup coconut oil
>>Curry leaves
>>1/2 tsp garam masala
>>1 1/2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
>>Pandan (single stem)
>>2 large onions chopped
>>1/2 tsp turmeric powder
>>Salt to taste
>>1 large tomato chopped
>>4 green chillies
>>1 tbsp chilli powder
>>2 tbsp cumin powder
>>1 tsp fennel powder
>>1 cup coconut milk
Method
Heat all ingredients except the meat and coconut milk in a wide pan. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes until the spices are cooked. Add the crab and allow it to marinate in the mix. Slowly pour some water in. Add 2 tbsp pepper powder and 1/3 cup thick coconut milk. Cover with lid for 15 minutes on medium heat. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve.
