07 May,2026 10:14 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum Pandya
Ananya Banerjee with her Thakurbarir Ranna spread. Pics/Ashish Raje
Every Bengali child learnt Rabindra Sangeet or Rabindrik dance, and studied his literature in school," Ananya Banerjee smiles, while requesting her cook of 15 years to pass the kasundi. Every year when the summer arrives, she makes her own batch using kacchi keri (unripened mangoes) instead of vinegar.
Mutton, Lebu Rice, and Mango Chutney
At Banerjee's tastefully done up home in Sewri, she is prepping for a pop-up in collaboration with Shahana-Tagore Centre For Music & Culture on May 9, which is the birth anniversary of Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore. She will be presenting a spread to celebrate Thakurbarir Ranna - a culinary heritage journey sourced from the ancestral home of the Tagores (Thakurs). This is located in Jorasanko, north Kolkata, and is called Thakurbari (House of the Thakurs).
Khoi'r Bora fritters with mango relish
She adds a spoonful of kasundi beside a puri filled with chana dal and aloo dum she has placed in skewers. "Rabindranath Tagore, besides being a philosopher, poet and writer, was a passionate gastronome. On his return home from travels, he would encourage his family to try new cuisines and dishes. It resulted in a unique blend of Bengali, European, and Middle Eastern influences," reveals Banerjee, dressed in a black and golden dhaniakhali (a Hooghly district GI-tagged handloom cotton). These dishes are not commonly found in restaurants, and remain closely associated with the Tagore family's kitchen.
Banana Blossom, Cauliflower
"My inspiration for this menu emerges from years of listening, learning, and preserving these recipes - first through my grandmother, then my mother, and later through two remarkable 150-year-old cookbooks that I consider the foundation to Bengali cuisine. The first is Amish o Niramish Ahar by Pragya Sundari Devi, Tagore's niece and a pioneering figure of Jorasanko Thakurbari. The second is Thakurbarir Ranna by his aunt, Purnima Thakur, which offers invaluable insight into the family's culinary traditions. From pork roast and mutton, to Anglo-Indian and British influences, the recipes are a treasure trove," says Banerjee, who was introduced to Thakurbari traditions during her childhood in Kolkata. "My family was influenced by art at Thakurbari. We even had an afternoon Darjeeling tea concept laid out in porcelains," she recalls.
Pumpkin-Broad Beans Paturi
Banerjee uses different types of Khoi or puffed rice in the menu. The Khoi'r Bora are light fritters made of kanakchur khoi (puffed rice) on a bed of sour mango purée. The puffed rice features in poha khichuri that she serves with jackfruit Dahi Vada. The vadas are dark brown, as she cooks the mash until it earns a roasted colour. She serves the Dum Aloo on skewers with a side of thick puris stuffed with chana dal.
Dahi Vada and Poha Khichuri
The crispy bite and the soft potato in dry red paste are good. The side of kasundi that Banerjee makes using kachhi keri instead of vinegar is the star. It adds punch to the bite. One of the interactive courses are three different paturis that Banerjee will demonstrate at the meal. We tried cauliflower, banana blossom (mocha) and pumpkin-broad bean mash. Wrapped and steamed in banana leaf, these are from coastal Bengal. We sample the main course, which includes Mutton with Mango Chutney and a mound of Gondhuraj Lebu Tulai Panji rice.
Aloo Dum Puri with Kasundi
The dessert includes Petit Fours of Mishti Porbo. We taste a bowl of textured Kheer Komoli made from puffed rice and topped with nolen gur. The Kobi Sambhardana Barfi gets a facelift as piping in kunafa nest baskets. "The ingredient is a surprise," she hints.
Banerjee, who began her culinary journey in 2017, believes food is all about storytelling. "The memories you share with people make all the difference. I wish Rabindranath Tagore could savour my food on Saturday," she blushes.
ON May 9; 12 noon
AT Ashok Gardens, Sewri.
CALL 9740206005 (to register)
COST Rs 3150 (non-vegetarian) Rs 2900 (vegetarian)
